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A LITTLE 



JOURNEY™ JAPAN 



FOR INTERMEDIATE AND UPPER 
GRADES 



By 
MARIAN M. GEORGE 



CHICAGO : 
A. FLANAGAN CO. 



THE LIBRARY OF 

CONGRESS, 
Two Copies Received 

MAR, 28 1901 

Copyright entry 

CLASS ^ XXo. N». 

S039 
COPY B. 



^f ::> T 



Copyright, 1901, 
By a. FLANAGAN COMPANY. 



A Little Journey 
to Japan. 



FIRST GLIMPSES. 

It seems almost as if by magic, the time being so 
short since we left China, until we are greeted by some 
one shouting "Japan." We feel as though we had been 
wafted as by a fairy wand across the solitudes of the sea 
as our thoughts fly through four thousand four hundred 
miles of the desolate ocean. Not a reef, or harbor, or 
island is in our minds as we think of the wilderness 
of water from the last time that our eyes rested upon 
the shores of our beloved America. 

The sun is just reddening the sky where it touches 
the sea, as we gather around little Matsuma, who has 
promised to guide us through the interesting scenes of 
his native land. We have with us our folding chairs, 
and we seat ourselves around him in a favorable spot 
on the ship's broad deck where we can see rising before 
us the beautiful and mysterious land of the Mikado. 

We see the waving plains rising far backward till 
they join the crumpled ridges of the low mountain 
ranges. As the sun quickens the clear air with its 
awakening rays, we see the distant landscape dotted 
with toy-like villages and curiously designed temples. 



4 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

''We are now passing Mississippi Bay," said Mat- 
suma. " Does it not seem strange to hear such a name 
so far away from your ' father of waters ' ? It was given 
in honor of your Commodore Perry, and was the name 
of his flag ship. Over there to our right is 'Treaty 
Point,' where he landed. We have perpetuated the 
memory of that event by giving an Bnglish name to 
the spot where he came ashore." 




Taking a Ride; on a Japanese Boat. 1/' 

Matsuma was interrupted by the booming of cannon 
from numerous war ships flying foreign flags. 

"Our countryfolks," said Matsuma, "call that salut- 
ing of cannon, ' boom-boom fune ; ' that is, boom-boom 
foolish." 

We thought so, too, but our opinions vanished as a 
funny little boat drew up near us, our ship cast anchor, 
and we were told to get ready to go ashore. No sooner 
do we board the little boat than it is quickly turned 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



about, and we soon skim over a half-mile of the blue 
water, dart witbin tbe stone piers, and are in the 
Mikado's empire. 

The custom-house and the native officials detain us 
but a few moments. Passing out the gate, we receive 
our first invitation to part with some small change from 




Tc.G.lbeT^* 



The Jin-riki-sha. 



three fat little urchins in curious dress, with lion's head 
and feathers for a cap, and with red streamers hanging 
down their backs. They run before us, and perform all 
kinds of astonishing tricks, such as carrying their heads 
beneath their feet, making a ball of themselves, and 
trundling along, etc. By our financial dealings with 
these little street-tumblers, we learn that "shinjo" 
means "gift," and " arigato" means "thank you," which 
is the beginning of our vocabulary in Japanese. 



6 A LITTL^ JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

We are in Yokahama, and as in every new country 
we visit, the street cries are tlie first to greet our ears 
and arouse our curiosity. Push, carts of every size and 
kind were passing along the wide and beautiful paved 
streets, every man trying to make himself heard over 
the others. Our first exclamation was called forth on 
seeing what looked like a huge baby carriage with a 
baby four or five feet tall in it being drawn at a sharp 
pace by a lean, lank, half-dressed man trotting along in 
the shafts. 

''That is a jin-riki-sha," said Matsuma. "The word 
means man-power carriage. One of your countrymen, 
I believe you call him a wag, has interpreted the word 
to mean Pull-man cars." 

SIGHTS AND SCENES. 

We go straight to an English hotel and prepare for 
our sight-seeing. Bvery thing is new to us. We are in 
a new world, although we are told that it is very old. 
We wish we had a hundred eyes like fabled Argus, so 
that we can see more. We are sorry that we do not 
speak the language, so that we can ask questions of 
everybody. But we have Matsuma. 

His uncles, aunts, and cousins meet him. They take 
him away, but he promises not to desert us long. In 
our first observation, we observe that none of the front 
doors are shut. All the shops are open. We can see 
some of the people eating their breakfast — beefsteaks, 
hot coffee, and hot rolls for warmth? — No: cold rice, 
pickled radishes, and vegetable messes of all unknown 
sorts. These we see. They make their rice hot by 
pouring tea almost boiling over it. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 7 

Lafcadio Hearn, the artistic and learned writer on the 
Japanese people, has exactly described our feelings at 
these first glimpses. He says : " Everybody looks at 
you curiously ; but there is never anything disagree-' 
able, much less hostile, in the gaze ; most commonly it' 
is accompanied by a smile or half smile. And the, 
ultimate consequence of all these kindly curious looks 
and smiles is that the stranger finds himself thinking 
of fairyland. Hackneyed to the degree of provocation 
this statement no doubt is ; everybody describing the' 
sensation of his first Japanese day talks of the land as 
fairyland, and of its people as fairy-folk. Yet there is; 
a natural reason for this unanimity in choice of termsi 
to describe what is almost impossible to describe more' 
accurately at the first essay. To find one's self sud-' 
denly in a world where everything, is upon a smaller 
and daintier scale than with us, — a world of lesser and 
seemingly kindlier beings, all smiling at you as if to; 
wish you well, — a world where all movement is slow; 
and soft, and voices are hushed, — a world where land,' 
life, and sky are unlike all that one has known else--; 
where, — this is surely the realization, for imaginations! 
nourished with Bnglish folklore, of the old dream of a; 
World of Elves." j 

We could not help noticing the cleanliness of every- 
body. Even the women who work in the coaling yard 
had beautifully dressed hair carefully protected by a 
towel twisted around the head. Everywhere we see 
flowering shrubs and trees in a blaze of bloom. The 
most beautiful are the cherry trees. Many varieties 
are cultivated and loved. Some bear blossoms of the 
most ethereal pink, a flushed white. When, in spring, 



8 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



the trees flower, it is as tHougli fleeciest masses of cloud 
faintly tinged by sunset had floated down from the 
highest sky to fold themselves about the branches. 
This comparison is from an ancient Japanese descrip- 
tion of the most marvelous floral exhibition which 
nature is capable of making. There are no green 




A Fi,ORAi, Exhibition. 

leaves ; these come later : there is only one glorious 
burst of blossoms, veiling every twig and bough in 
their delicate mist; and the soil beneath each tree is 
covered deep out of sight by fallen petals as by a drift 
of pink snow. 

Matsuma told us that his people believe that some of 
the most beautiful trees have souls, and so fear to do 
them any injury. In the afternoon while we were 
gathered about a fine willow tree, he told us a pretty 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



9 



legend whicli his countrymen believed to be true, and 
whicli showed why they were so tender even with trees. 

A TREE LEGEND. 

A beautiful willow tree growing in a garden of Kyoto 




A BuDDisT Temple 



somehow acquired the reputation of having a soul. 
Not believing this, the owner, who was a prince, decided 
to cut it down and stop the gossip. One of his neigh- 
bors, who was subject to the prince and rented the 
ground from him, said to the unbelieving owner ; 



lO A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

" Rather sell it to me, that I may plant it in my garden. 
That tree has a soul ; it were cruel to destroy its life." 
Thus purchased and transplanted, the tree flourished 
well in its new home, and its spirit, out of gratitude, 
secretly took the form of a beautiful w^oman, and be- 
came the wife of the man who had befriended it. A 
charming boy was born to them. A few years later, 
the prince to whom the ground belonged gave orders 
that the tree should be cut down. Then the wife wept 
bitterly, and for the first time revealed to her husband 
the whole story. " And now," she added, " I know 
that I must die ; but our child will live, and you will 
always love him. This thought is my only solace." 
Vainly the astonished and terrified husband sought to 
retain her. Bidding him farewell forever, she vanished 
into the tree. Needless to say that the husband did 
everything in his power to persuade the owner to forego 
his purpose. The prince wanted the tree for the re- 
pairing of a great Buddhist temple. The tree was 
felled, but, having fallen, it suddenly became so heavy 
that three huifdred men could not move it. Then the 
child, taking a branch in his little hand, said, " Come," 
and the tree followed him, gliding along the ground to 
the court of the temple. 

PHILDREN'5 AnUSEHENTS. 

" There," said Matsuma, pointing out a group of chil- 
dren playing in a yard, " you can see how Japanese 
children amuse themselves." 

" Why is that child sitting against the tree so still ? " 
asked one of us. 

Matsuma laughed. 



A IvITTIvE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 11 

'' That child is a doll," he answered. *' No doubt it 
was made for the mothfer of these children's great-great- 
grandmother. It may have been in the family a hun- 
dred years. Dolls in Japan are not made to be broken. 
The people think that if many generations love a doll, 
it may have a soul loved into it." 

'" You see," he continued, " that the children are 
playing in the garden among the flowers, and yet not a 
flower is hurt. They would think it very sinful to 
needlessly hurt so beautiful a plant." 

True enough, it is in the garden where the little ones 
first learn something of the wonderful life of plants and 
the marvels of the insect world ; and there, also, they 
are first taught those pretty legends and songs about 
birds and flowers which form so charming a part of 
Japanese folklore. As the home training of the child 
is left mostly to the mother, lessons of kindness to 
animals are early learned. It is true, Japanese children 
are not entirely free from the tendency to do cruel 
things. But in this regard the great moral difference 
between the sexes is strongly marked from the earliest 
years. The tenderness of the woman-soul appears 
even in the child. Little Japanese girls who play with 
insects of* small animals rarely hurt them, and gener- 
ally set them free after they have afforded a reasonable 
amount of amusement. Little boys are not so good, 
when out of sight of parents or guardians. But if seen 
doing anything cruel, a child is made to feel ashamed 
of the act, and hears the Buddhist warning, "Thy 
future birth will be unhappy, if thou dost cruel things." 
It is the religion to believe that souls are born into 
this life more than once. 



rz 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



Several pretty dogs were frisking about, and one of 
us remarked that we had seen no cats, therefore they 
were surely not favorites in Japan. 

"That is quite true," 
replied Matsuma, '*for as 
my people believe, the natu- 
ral tendency of cats is to be- 
come goblins ; and this tend- 
ency to change to danger- 
ous ghosts can be checked 
only by cutting off their 
tails in kittenhood. Cats 
are magicians, tails or no 
tails, and have the- power of 
making corpses dance. Cats 
are ungratefiil. * Feed a dog 
for three days,' says a Japan- 
ese proverb, 'and he will 
remember your kindness for 
three years ; feed a cat for 
three years and she will for- 
get your kindness in three 
days.' Cats are mischiev- 
ous : they tear the mat- 
\' , .> -"'"' tings, and sharpen their 

" ' claws upon the pillars of the 

holy temples. Cats are un- 




""^C, VJliSj 'i'^ 



A Japanese Boy. 



der a curse : only the cat and the venomous serpent 
wept not at the death of Buddha; and these shall never 
enter into the bliss of heaven." 



A LlTTlvB JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 1 3 

LADIES FROM AMERICA. 

That night at the hotel we met some American ladies 
who had been living a year or more in Yokahama, and 
they became very much interested in us young folks 
who had come all the way across the ocean just to learn 
how the Japanese people live and to see the sights of 
the empire. From them we learned many things that 
it would have taken us months to have found out from 
experience, even with the thoughtful guidance and 
explanations of Matsuma. 

They told us that the Japanese children romp and 
shout at play, but rarely hurt one another, and never 
quarrel. 

One of their games is much like our " Puss in the 
Corner." The four corners of the room are havens 
of truth where everyone is safe. In the middle of the 
room is one child dressed, according to the Japanese 
idea of a devil, all in black, with black draperies over 
his head. This black-robed monster catches whoever 
he can while they rush from one corner to another. 

There are no people in the world so fond of toys as 
the Japanese, but the pretty trifles give instruction as 
well as amusement to those who play with them. 

Japan has been called a paradise for babies, because 
the grown folks play with them so much. The child 
has no amusement that is not shared with as much zest 
by his parents and older friends. 

They have a game of checkers very much like ours. 
It is played on a raised stand or table, about six inches 
in height. The number of go^ or checkers, including 
black and white, is three hundred and sixty. In the 



14 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



Sho-gi, or game of chess, the pieces number forty in all. 
Back-gammon is also a favorite play, and there are sev- 
eral forms of it. About the time of the old New Year's, 




Japanese; Chii^dren Pi^aying PIoivIday Games. 

when the winds of February and March are favorable to 
the sport, kites are flown ; and there are few sports in 
which Japanese boys, from the infant on the back to the 
full-grown and the over-grown boy, take more delight. 
The Japanese kites are made of tough paper pasted on 
a frame of bamboo sticks, and are usually of a rectan- 
gular shape. Some of them, however, are made to repre- 
sent children or men, several kinds of birds and animals, 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



15 



ants, etc. On the rectangular kites are pictures of 
ancient heroes or beautiful women, dragons, horses, mon- 
sters of various kinds, or huge Chinese characters. 
Some of the kites are six feet square. Many of them 
have a thin, tense ribbon of whalebone at the top of the 
kite, which vibrates in the wind, making a loud, hum- 



,1. I.' ^ T'.^ ' 




Grandmother Tei^wng StoriE'S. 

ming noise. The boys frequently name their kites 
Genji or Heike', and each contestant endeavors to de- 
stroy that of his rival. For this purpose, the string, 
for ten or twenty feet near the kite end, is first covered 
with glue, and then dipped into pounded glass, by which 
the string becomes covered with tiny blades, each able 
to cut quickly and deeply. By getting the kite in 
proper position, and suddenly sawing the strings of his 
antagonist, the severed kite falls, to be reclaimed by 
the victor. 



1 6 A LI'TTLK JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

But most of all the children love to listen to the 
weird stories and legends which so profusely abound. 
The grandmother will thus keep the company of little 
people enthralled for hours. 

Stories of cats, rabbits, dogs, monkeys, and foxes, who 
are born, pass through babyhood, are nursed, watched, 
and educated by anxious parents with all due moral 
and religious training, enjoy the sports proper to their 
age, fall in love, marry, rear a family, and live happy 
ever afterward to a green old age, form the staple of 
the tiny picture-books for tiny people. 

Although stories of domestic animals are abundant, 
few of those creatures are to be found. It is one of the 
first curious differences that appear to us as visitors, and 
it is this lack which strikes the stranger so forcibly in 
looking upon Japanese landscapes. There are no cows ; 
the Japanese neither drink milk nor eat meat. There 
are but few horses, and these are imported mainly for 
the use of foreigners. The freight carts in the streets 
are pushed and pulled by coolies, and the pleasure 
carriages are drawn by men. There are but few 
varieties of dogs. There are no sheep, as wool is not 
used in clothing, silk and cotton being the staples. 
There are no pigs; pork is an unknown article of diet, 
and lard is not used in cooking. There are no goats or 
mules or donkeys. 

THE SHIP YARDS. 

The first morning after our arrival in Yokohama, 
Matsuma came to take us on a twelve-mile journey by 
railroad to see the ship yards at Yokosuka (yo-kos'-kah). 
At the little village of Hemi (hay-mee), about half way 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. t^ 

to the ship yards, he pointed out the tomb of the first 
English-speaking person to visit Japan. It was an in- 
teresting story. Will Adams was a pilot in the Dutch 
service. He landed in Japan, according to the letter 
he wrote home a few years later, about the middle of 
April, 1600. He was restrained from leaving the 
country by Prince ly^yasu and died in 1620. 

By the sheer force of a manly, honest character this 
sturdy Briton, " who may have seen Shakespeare and 
Ben Jonson " and Queen Elizabeth, rose into favor 
with lyeyasii, and gained the regard of the people. 
His knowledge of shipbuilding, mathematics, and for- 
eign affairs made him a very useful man. He was 
made an officer, and given the revenues of the village 
of Hemi in Sagami, near the modern Yokosiika, where 
are situated the dry-docks, machine-shops, and ship- 
building houses in which the modern war-vessels of the 
imperial navy are built and launched. One of the 
streets of Yedo was named after him, Anjin Cho (Pilot 
Street), and the people of that street still held an an- 
nual celebration on the 15th of June in his honor. 
When Adams died, he was buried on the summit of one 
of the lovely hills overlooking the Bay of Yedo, Golds- 
borough Inlet, and the surounding beautiful and class- 
ical landscape. Adams chose the spot himself. The 
people of Yedo erected memorial-stone lanterns at his 
tomb. 

At Yokosuka there were many jinrikishas in waiting 
at the station, and we engaged enough for us all with 
orders to take us around the ship yards and then out 
into the country. Matsuma told us it was a good time 
to visit the fields, as we were there in the season called 



i8 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



" Little Plenty." Then lie told us tliat tlie twenty-four 
divisions of the solar year (according to the lunar cal- 
endar), by which the Japanese farmers have for centu- 
ries regulated their labors, are as follows : — 

' ' Beginning of Spring " February 3. 

' ' Rain- Water " February 19. 

' ' Awakening of the Insects " March 5. 

' ' Middle of the Spring " March 20. 

" Clear Weather " Aprils. 

' ' Seed Rain " April 20. 

' * Beginning of Summer" May 5 . 

' ' Little Plenty " May 20. 

' ' Transplanting the Rice "..... June 5 . 

' ' Height of the Summer "..... June 2 1 . 

• ' Little Heat " July 6. 

" Great Heat " July 23. 

' ' Beginning of Autumn " August 7. 

' ' Local Heat " August 23. 

' ' White Dew " September 8. 

' ' Middle of Autumn " September 23 . 

' ' Cold Dew " October 8. 

' ' Fall of Hoar-frost " October 23. 

' ' Beginning of Winter " November 7. 

' ' Little Snow " November 22 . 

' ' Great Snow " December 7, 

' ' Height of the Winter " December 22 . 

' ' Little Frost " January 6. 

' ' Great Frost " Januarj' 20. 

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEOPLE. 

It would . take a book as big as the Bible to tell all 
that we saw, and we can only touch on the things that 
struck us at the first glance as the most curious. One 
of these noteworthy things showing the character of 
the people was in the rice fields. There we see every- 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 1 9 

where, sticking up above the grain, objects like white- 
feathered arrows. Arrows of prayer ! We take one up 
to.examine it. The shaft is a thin bamboo, split down 
for about one third of its length; into the slit a strip of 
strong white paper with ideographs upon it — an ofuda, 
a Shint5 charm — is inserted; and the separated ends of 
the cane are then rejoined and tied together just above 
it. The whole, at a little distance, has exactly the ap- 
pearance of a long, light, well-feathered arrow. That 
which we first examine bears the words, so Matsuma 
says, " From the God whose shrine is before the Village 
of Peace." Bverywhere, as we proceed, we see the white 
arrows of prayer glimmering above the green level of 
the grain; and always they become more numerous. 
Far as the eye can reach the fields are sprinkled with 
them. What a religious or else what a superstitious 
people they are! 

Sometimes, also, around a little rice-field, we see a 
sort of magical fence, formed by little bamboo rods sup- 
porting a long cord from which long straws hang down, 
like a fringe, and paper cuttings, which are symbols, are 
suspended at regular intervals. This is the sacred em- 
blem of Shinto. Within the consecrated space inclosed 
by it no blight may enter, — no scorching sun wither 
the young shoots. And where the white arrows glim- 
mer the locust shall not prevail, nor shall hungry birds 
do evil. 

That reminds us of the curious birds to be seen. We 
had noticed gulls and a kind of ducks following our 
ship in great flocks as we came up to port at Yokohama. 



20 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

KINDNESS OF THE PEOPLE. 

It astonished us to see how tame every animal is. 
Even the frogs and little harmless snakes hardly 
trouble themselves to get out of our way. Matsuma 
explained to us that it is because every one is so uni- 
versally kind to birds and animals of all kinds. The 
white heron were plentiful, and occasionally we sav/ the 
huge storks, six feet high, stalking along the streams. 
On the hills where the path wound through the woods 
the snow had been disturbed by the wild boar. We 
stopped to rest at the house of a noted hunter, on whose 
floor lay three huge carcasses and tusked heads. He 
showed us his long, light spear, with which he had 
transfixed one hundred and thirteen wild hogs that 
winter. It had a triangular, bayonet-like blade. The 
village bought the meat of him. Monkeys were said 
to be plentiful in the woods. 

In all the villages the people were on the lookout for 
the coming foreigners. The entire population, from 
wrinkled old men and stout young clowns to hobbling 
hags, girls with red cheeks and laughing black eyes, 
and toddling children, were out. The women, babies, 
and dogs seemed especially eager to see us. The vil- 
lage houses were built of a frame of wood, with wattles 
of bamboo smeared with mud, and having a thatched 
roof. Within, the floor was raised a foot or so above 
the ground, and covered with mats. When the rooms 
had partitions, they were made of a frame of wood cov- 
ered with paper, and made to slide in grooves. In the 
middle of the floor was the fire-place. From the ceiling 
hung pot-hooks, pots, and kettles — one for tea, one for 



A i.it'Tle journey to japan. 



2i 



rice, another for radishes, beans, or bean-cheese. In 
these villages good-nature and poverty seemed to be 
the chief characteristics of the people. The old faces 
were smoke-dried and wrinkled, and the skin seemed to 
be tanned on the inside by long swilling of strong tea. 
Bvery event caused us to learn something new of the 
strange country. It was so while we were taking a 
kind of noon luncheon in a little tea-house upon the 
hillside, back of the harbor. 

STORY OF A THUNDER=STORM. 

A rain storm came upon us and Matsuma gave us a 



new story of the 
tion. When a 
comes, the big 
curtains are sus- 



people's supersti- 
thunder-storm 
brown mosquito 
pended, and the 




VKGETABI^B PKDDI^ER. 

women and children — perhaps the whole family — 
squat down under the curtains till the storm is over. 
From ancient days it has been believed that lightning 
can not kill anybody under a mosquito curtain. The 



^2 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



Thunder- Animal can not pass through a mosquito 
curtain. Only the other day, an old peasant who 
came to the house with vegetables to sell told us that 

he and his whole family, 
while crouching under 
their mosquito netting 
during a thunder-storm, 
actually saw the lightning 
rushing up and down the 
pillar of the balcony op- 
posite their apartment, — 
furiously clawing tbe 
woodwork, but unable to 
enter because of the mos- 
quito netting. His house 
had been badly damaged 
by a flash ; but he sup- 
posed the mischief to have 
been accomplished by the claws of the Thunder-Ani- 
mal. 

The Thunder-Animal springs 
from tree to tree during a storm, 
tbey say; wherefore to stand 
under trees in time of thunder 
and lightning is very danger- 
ous : the Thunder- Animal might 
step on one's head or shoulders. 
Incense is always burned during 
storms, because the Thunder- 
Animal hates the smell of in- 
cense. A tree stricken by light- God of Rain. 
ning is thought to have been born and scarred by the. 




Th:E Thunder God. 




A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



23 



claws of tlie Thunder-Animal ; and fragments of its 
bark and wood are carefully collected and preserved 
by dwellers in tbe vicinity ; for the wood of a blasted 
tree is alleged to have the singular virtue of curing 
toothache^ 




Way-Side Tea House. 

Once, it is said, the Thunder- Animal fell into a well, 
and got entangled in the ropes and buckets, and so was 
captured alive. And old Izumo folk say they remem- 
ber that the Thunder- Animal was once exhibited in the 
court of the Temple of Ten j in in Matsue, inclosed in a 
cage of brass ; and that people paid one sen each to 
look at it It resembled a badger. When the weather 
was clear, it would sleep contentedly in its cage. But 
when there was thunder in the air, it would become 
excited, and seem to obtain great strength, and its eyes 
would flash dazzlingly. 



24 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

JAPANESE ART. 

In the wayside tea house, where we had refuge from 
the storm, there were a large number of designs which 
we could not decide whether they were really paintings 
or only for decorative purposes. 

Matsuma offered the opinion that in Japan painting 
is not a separate art, but simply the highest form of 
the decorative art. The painter works, not for galler- 
ies, public or private, but for the adornment of temples 
and homes. A Japanese can not see a surface without 
feeling tempted to adorn it with flowers, birds, maidens, 
and mountains. 

With Yankee curiosity we peeped into a smoking 
room, or rather round a screen, for there was no parti- 
tion, and we thought the pipes and manner of smoking 
very peculiar. Our questions reminded Matsuma of a 
story which showed the ingenious way in which their 
judges sometimes secure justice. 

A certain man possessed a very costly pipe, made of 

HOW JUSTICE WAS SECURED. 

silver inlaid with gold, of which he was very proud. 
One day a thief stole it. After some vain search, Oka 
heard that a man in a certain street had such a pipe, 
but it was not certain whether it was his own or the 
stolen article. He found out the truth concerning the 
pipe in the following ingenious manner : — 

A Japanese pipe is usually made of a tiny bowl, 
or bowl-piece fitted to a mouth-piece with a bamboo 
tube. Sometimes all the parts are in one, the material 
being metal or porcelain. The mild tobacco, cut into 
finest shreds, like gossamer, is rolled up in pellets, and 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 25 

lighted at a live coal in the brazier. After one or two 
whiffs, a fresh ball is introduced. A native will thus 
sit by the hour, mechanically rolling up these tobacco 
pills, utterly oblivious of the details of the act. Like 
certain absent-minded people, who look at their watches 
a dozen times, yet can not tell, when asked, what time 
it may be, so a Japanese, while talking at ease, will often 
be unable to remember whether he has smoked or not. 
After a long mechanical practice, his nimble fingers 
with automatic precision roll the pellet to a size that 
exactly fills the bowl of the pipe. 

The shrewd judge found an opportunity to see the 
suspected man a short time after the theft. He noticed 
him draw out the golden pipe, and abstractedly roll up 
a globule of tobacco from his pouch. He put it into the 
brazier. It was too small, for in turning the mouth of 
the bowl sideward or downward, the pellet rolled out. 
Here was positive proof to Oka that the golden pipe 
was not his own. The thief, on being charged with 
the theft, confessed his guilt, and was punished. 

RELIGION. 

As we returned to our English hotel on the train, 
Matsuma told us that his parents belonged to the 
Nichiren sect of the Buddhist religion. He told us a 
very pretty story of how the Lord of Kamakura tried 
in vain to destroy the saintly Nichiren who was then 
founding a new faith. 

The Lord of Kamakura ordered his swordsman and 
an attendant to kill Nichiren. Accordingly he was 
taken out to a village on the strand of the bay beyond 
Kamakura J and in front of the lovely island of 



26 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

Knoshima. At this time Nichiren was forty-three 
years old. Kneeling down upon the strand, the saintly 
bonze calmly uttered his prayers upon his rosary. 
The swordsman lifted his blade, and, with all his might, 
made the downward stroke. Suddenly a flood of 
blinding light burst from the sky, and smote upon the 
executioner and the official inspector deputed to witness 



1 





Buddhist Tempi,e. 

the severed head. The sword-blade was broken in 
pieces, while the holy man was unharmed. At the 
same moment, Hojo, the Lord of Kamakura, was 
startled at his revels in the palace by the sound of 
rattling thunder and the flash of lightning, though 
there was not a cloud in the sky. Dazed by the awful 
signs of heaven's displeasure, Hojo divining that it was 
on account of the holy victim, instantly dispatched a 
fleet messenger to stay the executioner's hand and re- 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 27 

prieve the victim. Simultaneously the official inspector 
at the still unstained blood-pit sent a courier to beg re- 
prieve for the saint whom the sword could not touch. 
The two men, coming from opposite directions, met at 
the small stream which the tourist still crosses on the 
way from Kamakura to Knoshima, and it was thereafter 
called Yukiai (meeting on the way) River, a name 
which it retains to this day. Seeing that he could not 
kill Nichiren, Hojo caused him to be banished, but a 
son of Hoj"o afterward recalled him, and the new 
religion became the most influential in Japan. 

For those who like things charming and dainty there 
is no country like this land of the chrysanthemums. 
Bven the rough foreigners become more gentle and 
gracious. 

MONEY OF JAPAN. 

The day after we had been sight-seeing through the 
part of the city known as the bluffs, where most of the 
foreigners live, Matsuma came again for us with the 
strange little carriages. The jinrikisha fee or fare in 
Yokohama is lo sen (5 cents) per hoiir. This is prac- 
tically the same in all Japanese cities, being cheaper in 
the country, but travelers in the end save themselves 
expense and annoyance by hiring and paying for their 
'rikishas through their hotels. 

The currency of Japan is on the same numerical basis 
as in the United States, one yen corresponding to our 
dollar and containing 100 sen or cents ; there are i 
and 2 sen copper pieces, 5 sen silver and nickel pieces, 
10, 20 and 50 sen silver pieces and i yen in both paper 
and silver, the higher denominations being in paper; 
there are also gold coins, but these are rarely seen. In 



28 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

tHe little we had traveled we found that a passport is 
absolutely necessary in traveling. These are easily ob- 
tained by travelers for a nominal fee in a few hours by 
applying at their consuls ; to avoid delay and annoy- 
ance it should be applied for immediately on arrival. 
Jn the United States, persons travel about and no one 
asks any questions except to gratify curiosity, but in 
monarchies officers are detailed to understand every 
stranger's purpose in traveling over the country. 

CUSTOMS OF THE PEOPLE. 

On this excursion out among the villages, we were 
especially anxious to learn about the customs of the 
people. It was amazing to find how much they had 
changed in so short a time since the country was opened 
to our civilization. Those who visited Japan under the 
old regime could hardly have imagined that, in so short 
a time, railways and telegraph lines would be extended 
into almost every part of the islands ; that electric lights 
would illumine the cities of the Mikado as they do the 
capitals of Europe and the great cities of the United 
States; that telephones would be in use everywhere; 
that buildings of Western architecture would be too com- 
mon to attract attention; and that almost every ad- 
vanced idea of the Western world would find immediate 
acceptance in the island empire. 

Along with these changes in public and business life 
have come, also, tremendous and necessary changes in 
the social and family life. Some of the people now live 
exactly as we do in this country — dwelling in homes 
built according to Western ideas, eating food of the kind 
preferred in the West, and cooked in Western ways, and 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



29 



wearing the Western style of dress. They give recep- 
tions, entertainments in their homes, dinners, balls, and 
all other social functions 
in the strictest manner of 
the West. But there are] 
others who cling, half-' 
heartedly, to the old man- 
ners and customs. These 
live in a style that is 
half-western and h a 1 f - 
eastern, half -European 
and half-Japanese. This 
class marks the intermedi- 
ate stage between the old 
regime and the new. Al- 
most all of the common 
class people, however, still 
live in the old fashion. 
The few changes they 
have adopted in their 
dress and style of living '^^^ litti^e Maids. 

only serve to accentuate the more the peculiarities of 
both civilizations. 

THE FAMILY. 

In Japan, the center of social life is the family. Bvery- 
one is supposed to belong to some family and to be 
attached to its residence. The family is more closely 
united than it is in America, for there are no tenements 
and apartment houses. Bach family occupies its own 
home, however humble it may be. A Japanese house 
for a middle-class family usually consists of from 
seven to ten rooms, with a little garden attached. 




30 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

Besides the married couple and their children, some 
of their relatives usually live in the same house, 
their brothers, sisters, and parents being entitled to 
membership in the same family. An important fea- 
ture in the home life is that younger members of a 
family must pay special respect to the elder members. 
This practice extends to brothers and sisters as well as 
to the children of the household. The head of a family 
is usually a married man, who is responsible for the 
support of the entire household and for the management 
of the estate. According to the customs, property was 
formerly considered as belonging to the family, instead 
of to the individual, and stood in the names of the 
"heads " of families. This has been changed, however, 
and by recent laws any person in Japan, male or female, 
may now own property in his or her individual right. 
But all property of the family is still transferred from 
head to head, whenever there is a change in the head- 
ship. It is partly due to this custom that the people 
are especially solicitous about the perpetuation of the 
family. If there are no children, a boy or youth from 
another family is adopted, and he succeeds, in due time, 
to the headship. 

We soon showed the natives that we were not prying 
into the lives of the Japanese for mere pastime or holi- 
day curiosity, but with a sincere desire to learn the 
manners and ways that seemed to give these people 
such cheerfulness and peace. 

Matsuma told us most that we learned about the lives 
of the more refined and exclusive classes. We had no 
desire to intrude on them more than we would have 
wanted foreigners, who were uncouth according to our 



A Lll^TlvE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



3i 



tastes, to come to our homes and intrude on our private 
lives. For the woman of tlie higher class the day begins 
in the early morning with a stroll about the gardens 
before breakfast, during which she tends her plants, 
waters flowers, and perhaps here and there snips off a 
little branch from 
some petted tree, 
in the training of 
which her ances- 
tors may have la- 
bored for years. 
This garden may 
be a space only 
ten feet square and 
still be a source of 
infinite gratifica- 
tion to a family of 
taste. 

After the stroll 
in the garden 
comes the cheer- 
ful breakfast, at 
which all the 
members of the 
family are present. 
It consists chiefly 
of rice, cooked as 
only a Japanese can cook it, every kernel separate and 
entire. After the breakfast the master goes to his of&ce, 
the children to school, and the mistress attends to her do- 
mestic duties. Veneration for age is a national trait, so 
the Japanese woman's first pleasure (duty) is to see her 




The Tree Pi<ant. 



32 A LIl'TLK JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

own or her husband's father and mother, who are usu- 
ally domiciled in another wing of the home. She 
brings to them the cheer of her presence and lovingly 
attends to their wants. They are called the " Go- 
inkyo-sama " (Honorable Mr. and Mrs. Retired Per- 
sons). 
^ In the morning the ladies are frequently engaged in 
the characteristic occupation of doing harimona ; that 
is, in starching old clothes and spreading them on large 
boards to dry in the sunshine. This is the first step to 
making over old garments, and is done in the open air. 
Nearly all Japanese women make their own clothes ; 
at all events, even the very richest embroider their gar- 
ments themselves. They are very economical little 
dressmakers, and do much planning, cutting, basting 
and making over. 

Much loving care is bestowed on the younger children 
by the mother, and although she seldom or never kisses 
them, she has thoughtful, quiet little caresses to lavish 
upon them, 

•—In Japan the higher-class ladies never go to market ; 
the market comes to them. That is, the dealers call 
and offer wares for sale at their customers' doors. The 
fish-merchant brings his stock, and if any is sold pre- 
pares it for cooking. The green-grocer, the sake-dealer, 
and nowadays the meat-man, all go to their patrons' 
houses. 

The evening meal is served at, or a little before, dusk 
the year round. A small table, about one foot square 
and eight inches high, is set before each person. On 
this is a lacquer tray, with space for four or five dishes, 
each four or five inches in diameter. There are definite 



34 A Ul'TL^ JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

places for eacli little bowl and dish. The rice-bowl is 
on the left, the soup-bowl in the middle. One's appe- 
tite is measured according to the number of bowls of 
rice one eats. A maid is at hand with a large box of 
rice to replenish the bowls. If a few grains are left in 
the bottom of the bowl, she is aware that those eating 
have had sufficient ; but should one empty his bowl, she 
'^will once more fill it. 

EXTREriE POLITENESS. 

The politeness of departing guests is to us a very 
humorous procedure, but Matsuma-^ays that he has 
seen it take half an hour for twg^girls in our country 
to say the last good-by after they had said the first. 
The following dialogue is an example of what may 
pass between the guest and the host as the visitor goes 
away from an evening party/ 

The Guest. I can, of course, never repay you for 
the extreme pleasure I have had in visiting your honor- 
able excelleacy. 

The Host. It is impossible to lose sight of the 
honor you have bestowed on my unworthy house by 
coming. 

The Guest. I can only pray that your excellency 
will deign to visit at my augustly insignificant house. 

The Host. It is the desire of my heart to see much 
of your highness, and for that reason I trust you will 
very often accept my meager hospitality. 

The Guest. I beseech your honor to visit at a 
speedy date, and deign to accept what little entertain- 
ment my house can afford. 

The Host. On all occasions my house is yours. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



35 



The Guest. And mine yours. 

The Host. Consider my house as your own. 

The Guest. And mine yours. 

After this a number of profound prostrations fol- 




Thb Good Byb. 

lowed, in which each managed to touch the ground with 
his head, and the guest took his departure. 

CLIHATE. 

A person who might suddenly be dropped down upon 
our world from another planet would hardly see more 
new sights to the minute than we did. As did the 
queen of Sheba on her visit to King Solomon, we must 
exclaim that the half had not been told us. Like the 
people and the scenes, the climate of Japan is charm- 
ing. The mercury stands at about 80 to 85 degrees in 



36 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



summer, and at about 90 degrees from July to Septem- 
ber. The monsoon tempers even tbat beat, so that the 
nights are cool and comfortable. June and September 
afre the rainy seasons, when all heavy clothing is 
packed away to preserve it from mildew, and the coolie 
dons his straw rain-coat, # instead of his blue 

cotton suit and white hat. 




The Farmer and His Rain Coat. 

Most of the foreigners are engaged in the tea and 
silk trades. The former have large " go-downs," or 
storerooms. They fire their own teas and employ hun- 
dreds of men, women and children. Silk is brought to 
the purchaser in large, softly wound bundles, and its 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 37 

quality tested by being run over wooden wheels, and 
then it is sent to different places abroad for dyeing. 
One can not but wonder why, as the Japanese themselves 
are such experts in that line, competing favorably with 
any country in the world. Their brocades can not be 
surpassed in design, coloring or texture. The Japan- 
ese now build their own ships, manage their own rail- 
roads, and make good clocks and lamps, etc., using 
foreign models. 

The four seasons, each marked by the blooming of a 
special flower, are celebrated by great feasts, in which 
everyone takes part. The women, dressed in beautiful 
bright kimonos and their best obis, toddle along, buy- 
ing queer toys for the amusement of the cute baby that 
is invariably strapped to their backs with a gaily col- 
ored piece of crape. In the evening all is life and ex- 
citement in the show streets. Banners fly, drums beat, 
jugglers perform in front of their platforms to tempt 
you to see greater wonders inside. Strong men wrestle 
and animals roar. One crowd succeeds another in end- 
less succession. To the artist it is a continual blend- 
ing of changing colors; to the philosopher comes the 
conviction that here at least is a happy, contented 
people. 

We returned to the hotel from the day's jinrikisha 
excursion, weary and worn, but alert and interested as 
we were in the morning when Matsuma appeared with 
the array of queer carriages and still more singular 
horse-men, drawing them. 



38 A LITTLER JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

THE SCHOOLS. 

The next day we devoted to visiting the public schools. 
How different from our own, and yet how like the man- 
ner of life around. The ceremonial politeness shown 
to teachers, the absence of desks, the queer little tables 
for holding paints, brushes, crayons and school utensils, 
all filled us with such surprise that it was long before 
we could fix our minds on how and what they studied. 
Among the departments visited was a kindergarten that 
made us feel as if a school of Japanese dolls had sud- 
denly become alive. 

THE KINDERGARTEN. 
• If the kindergarten appeals to mature Japanese minds 
it is still more attractive to the children themselves. 
Their intellects are just as keen as those of children in 
the west, and they often take a greater delight in the 
work, which involves colors and their combinations, for 
every Japanese child is born with artistic instincts, and 
everything in the kindergarten naturally appeals to 
him. 

The kindergarten was introduced by some of the 
missionaries, but the Japanese have accepted its princi- 
ples and ideas with enthusiasm, and the foreign teach- 
ers meet with the intelligent co-operation of Japanese 
parents. Several training schools have been founded, 
and these have opened a new field of work to Japan- 
ese women, for the girl graduates have established 
kindergartens of their own. In Tokyo, Kioto, Osaka, 
and Kobe kindergarten societies have been formed which 
publish a periodical in Japanese. 

Whether a person is fond of children or not, he could 
watch the operation of a Japanese kindergarten, day 



A LITTI^E JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



39 



after day without tiring. The babies begin to troop in 
in the morning at 9 o'clock. The kindergarten gener- 
ally consists of two or three square rooms with ''tatami" 
(straw mats') on the floor. The Japanese never wear 




Studying a Fe;w of the; Forty-seven IvETTers in Their Ai^phabet. 

their shoes when they enter a house to walk over this 
matting, so it is always spotlessly clean. In their own 
homes they kneel on cushions on the floor, but in the 
kindergarten they have the same little chairs and 
tables, marked into squares, which we use in this coun- 
try. Leaving their " geta," or wooden shoes, in a stand 
made for the purpose just outside the door, they enter 
in their little white "tabi" (socks) and bow very low to 
the teachers before running to their places, 



40 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

Japanese politeness is inculcated when a child begins 
to crawl, and so soon as he can stand he is taught to 
make a bow, as Japanese children of all ages will make 
a deep obeisance when occasion demands — and that is 
very often — with gravity and unconsciousness, when 
an American small boy would find himself covered with 
confusion. 

The Japanese children who go to the kindergarten, 
called a '' gochien," look like the Japanese dolls which 
our children play with, except that their faces are really 
much prettier and more attractive. But their hair is 
cut in the same fantastic way, and their little " kimo- 
nos " and " obis " are even more attractive in the original 
than in the imitation. Bach child is brought by an 
" amah " (nurse) or his mother, or an older sister, and 
carries a little "berto" or lunch box, carefully packed 
at home. It is made of lacquer in three compartments, 
one on top of the other, and each is filled with a differ- 
ent kind of food, the most important of all being rice. 
When noon jcomes the children sit down at the tables 
with their boxes, a bowl of tea and "hashi," or chop- 
sticks, before them. At a signal the '* hashi " are lifted, 
dipped into the tea, then convey rice, bits of meat and 
pickles to the small mouths with wonderful rapidity. 

There is one fascinating occupation which Japanese 
children have in the kindergarten, denied to boys and 
girls of other 'climates. This is the raising of silk 
worms, and finally winding the silk from their own 
cocoons. A great feature of the Japanese kindergarten, 
like all others, is the custom of having a mass of grow- 
ing, blooming flowers in each window. The children 
love these passionately. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 4 1 

When the last game has been played and the last 
march about the room over the soft " tatami " is finished, 
the children bow ceremoniously to their teachers again, 
then rush off full of spirits to greet whoever is waiting 
for them, put on their outside garments, called " haori," 
and their wooden "geta," in which they trudge home, 
the older ones to finish out the day with outdoor games, 
such as kite flying, in season, or stilt walking, called 
"bamboo horse," which is always a source of joy to the 
young Japanese boy. 

A DELIGHTFUL CONCERT. 

That evening we sat late in a little tea garden at 
Matsuma's ancestral home. The dreamy quiet of 
these swiftly moving hours we can never forget, perhaps 
never again enjoy. Under a canopy and over a carpet 
of cherry-blossoms, we listened to a concert of nature 
that, we have been told, can not be surpassed anywhere 
in the world. Singing birds are esteemed in all coun- 
tries, but it is only in Japan that the musical sounds 
emitted by certain insects are appreciated. Listening 
to these minute singers is, and has been for many cen- 
turies, a favorite pastime of the Japanese, and has given 
birth to an original commerce. At Tokyo, toward the 
end of May and the beginning of June, one sees sus- 
pended under the verandas of houses beautiful little 
cages of bamboo, from which breaks upon the silence 
of fresh twilight strange little whistlings of metallic 
modulations, of light trills, which fill the air with a 
delicate music. It is habitually in the evening after 
the hour of the bath, that the people of Tokyo seat 
themselves and listen with delight to the shrill concert. 



42 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

The most prized of these singing insects is the suzn- 
mushi. Its name means " insect bell," and the sound 
which it emits resembles that of a tiny silver bell. It 
is a tiny black beetle, of a flat body and very vulgar 
appearance. The kutsuwa-mushi is so named because 
its cry resembles the sound made by a horse champing 
a bit. There are two species of it, the one a light 
yellow and the other a pale green. Really, this insect 
is none other than a kind of winged grasshopper, of fat 
body, and common in many countries. In Tokyo alone 
there are over forty merchants dealing in singing in- 
sects. This commerce is of relatively recent origin, 
though for centuries the Japanese have been fond of 
the music of these insects. Formerly they would go in 
parties to places where the little musicians abounded, 
pass the night there extended upon mats, drinking tea 
or saki and listening to the harmony of the suzu-mushi 
and kutsuwa-mushi. 

It is only about loo years ago that an amateur 
named Choso. had the idea of capturing one of these 
insects for his own particular diversion. Great was his 
surprise, on opening a vase the following year, to find 
it filled with newly hatched young. After that he 
gave himself up to the raising of various species of 
singing insects, and so founded a trade which has be- 
come flourishing. 

OUR LiniTED TiriE. 

It was decided by our friends, that, owing to our lim- 
ited time, the remainder of our sightseeing should be 
conducted from boats and railroad trains. Yokohama 
was not all of Japan and there was much yet to be 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



43 



seen before our departure. As we could fill volumes with 
the details of our sightseeing, perhaps it would now be 
better for us to recall only general descriptions of the 
places we visited on the following excursions we made 
before we bade adieu to the " Land of Sunrise." 

The " Inland Sea " is the name given to a portion of 
the Pacific Ocean imprisoned between the main island 
of Japan and the islands of Kinshu and Shikoku. From 
its entrance at Akashi, which is passed soon after leav- 
ing Kobe, it is two hundred and forty miles to Shimon- 
oseki, which is situated at its eastern end ; it varies in 
width from eight to forty miles, but so thickly are 
some parts studded with islands that vessels frequently 
pass within a stone's throw of the shore. There are 
thousands of these islands, in endless variety of shapes, 
some mere rocks, and others with farms and fishing 
huts. ' The lights and shades are perfect ; nowhere 
does the interest relax, 
but keeps the traveler 
ever on the alert to grasp 
all the beauties of this 
truly wonderfully beauti- 
ful sea. A Japanese prov- 
erb says, "Who has not 
seen Nikko cannot say 
beautiful." Nikko, ninety 
miles by rail north of To- 
kyo, nestling up against 
the mountains, is noted 
for the superb natural beauty of its surroundings and 
its great shrines of the Shoguns. The only way to 
appreciate these shrines from descriptions is to read a 




A WaysidK ShrtnE. 



44 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

whole book about them, and there are numerous books 
written by keen observers who are great writers. 

NIKKO. 

Nikko, lying two thousand feet above the sea, and 
five hours by rail from Tokyo by the Northern Rail- 
way, is, perhaps, the best known Japanese shrine. 

CITY OF KYOTO. 

Kyoto, distant from Nagoya ninety-four miles, con- 
tains more of interest to tourists than any city in the 
Empire. It is the western capital of the present Impe- 
rial Government. There are several hotels, the princi- 
pal being the Kyoto Hotel and the Yaami, which is 
noted for its fine view. The curio, silk, and porcelain 
stores are the best in the country. In no place can the 
tourist get a better selection or find more reasonable 
prices. But it is for its magnificent temples, grand 
monuments, beautiful gardens, and gorgeous festivals 
that it is such a mine of interest to the tourist, and much 
time can be spent there amid its fine artistic treasures. 
Kyoto is also famous as producing the finest silks, 
embroideries, brocade, cloisonne and other art produc- 
tions for which Japan stands pre-eminent. In the envi- 
rons of Kyoto are some of the most picturesque and 
notable scenic spots, and tourists should not fail to visit 
Lake Biwa, the largest lake in Japan, around the shores 
of which can be viewed the Omi-hakkei, or eight land- 
scapes of Omi ; or to shoot the rapids of the Katsura 
River, where the stream boils and rushes for nine miles 
through a picturesque rocky chasm of almost unsur- 
passed scenic beauty. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



45 



Osaka, on the Tokaido Railway, and about one hour 
from Obe, and one and one-half from Kyoto, has little be- 
yond its commercial progress that would recommend it to 
tourists. It is justly called the Chicago of Japan, and in 
no other city in the Empire is displayed the same activity 
and commercial spirit ; thousands of factories, employing 
over seventy thousand hands, turn out products that are 




The Mountains and Laki; of Hakon:^. 

beginning to make Japan felt as an important factor in 
the markets of the world. The Government Mint is 
also located here. 

Kno-shima, reached from Kamakura by a beautiful 
four-mile drive along the shore, is a most picturesque 
mass of rugged rocks, covered with pines, and sur- 
mounted with an old temple. It is joined to the main- 
land by a narrow isthmus, which is covered at high 



46 



A IvlTTLK JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



tide. Bno-shima is famous for its pretty sea shells and 
its cave, three hundred and seventy-two feet deep, con- 
taining a shrine that can be visited at low tide. 

CONTRASTS OF THE MOUNTAINS AND SEA COASTS. 

In our travels far back into the country, we observed 
how the customs receded into the life of the old Japan. 
In the cities along the coast that are frequented by 




Taking a Ride in a Pai^anquin. 

Europeans, the change is so great that one could almost 
fancy himself to be in a port of one of the Western 
nations. 

The religious devotees of the different creeds are 
more numerous back from the coast ; the styles of dress 
and the household customs are less affected by the 
ways of foreigners. 



A tl'rTL:^ JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 47 

^The fruit-venders with baskets hanging from the 
ends of a pole balanced on their shoulders, are still in 
every town. See cut, page 21. 

Although carriages drawn by horses are rapidly 
being introduced, the palaquin, which was in use long 
before the jinrikisha, is still to be seen in the remote 
villages. In the principal commercial towns, they now 
have fine bands, both of stringed instruments and 
horns, but back in the country is still to be heard the 
peculiar twang of the Gerkin and Lamisen. 

The geisha, or dancing girls, were once slaves trained 
almost from babyhood for their profession, but now they 
are trained only when they show special aptitude and 
skill. 

There are not now so many bands of female min- 
strels, but there is still to be seen the quartet of girls 
with tambourine, kettledrum, and the queer old stringed 
instruments. 

SOME JAPANESE PETS. 

We saw in numerous places, where birds had built 
their nests within the houses. The children all over 
Japan pay voluntary and natural devotion to the house- 
hold shrine. It is a common thing, not only in the 
country, but in larger cities like Tokio, for a species of 
swallow to build its nest in the house, not in an out-of- 
the-way place, but in a room where the family may be 
most actively engaged, or in the shop fronting the street 
with all its busy traffic going on. 

The very common occurrence of these birds' nests in 
houses is another of the many evidences of the gentle- 
ness of this people, and of the kindness shown by them 



48 



A LlTTLt JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



to animals. When a bird builds its nest in tbe bouse, 
a little shelf is promptly secured beneath it, so that the 
mats below shall not be soiled. The presence of a bird 
in the house is regarded as a good omen, and the chil- 
dren take great delight in watching the nest-building 
and the rearing of the birdlings. As if with an idea of 
the eternal fitness of things, the birds always build these 




T.c<;. 



Taking a Sleep in a PaivAnquin. 

house nests much more symmetrically than when built 
in more exposed and public positions. 

In this country, cranes are trained to do the same sort 
of service as our carrier-pigeons. It is a merry sight 
to watch them set off with their loud, harsh cries, and 
no less pleasant is it to see them arrive. One may 
trust them with a very full correspondence. The white 
herons, as well as the cranes, are protected from the 
fowler, being left unmolested, as they are considered 
sacred. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 49 

Among the rapacious birds, the falcon and the hawk 
take the lead inland, while the fish-eagle and the sea- 
eagle soar along the coasts. Gulls and sea-mews waken 
up the echoes among the rocks, but they are seldom 
seen in large flocks. In mentioning the animals native 
to Japan, the beautiful miku, or chamois, must not be 
overlooked, though the specimens we found of this 
fleet-footed little animal in the zoos were hardly rep- 
resentative, for it looked entirely out of place in its 
prison house, lacking its natural beauty and grace 
when seen in its native mountains, speeding from crag 
to crag, the most care-free of all God's creatures, and 
certainly one of the most graceful. 

Since to eat animal food is against the religious prin- 
ciples of most of the people, we do not see in Japan the 
industries known as cattle raising, stock yards, and 
packing houses. 

The people love the flesh of fish, and so pay much 
attention to fish-culture and fish-catching. 

Some of the most singular forms to be found in the 
sea are around the coasts of this singular island. 

CHILDREN'S FEAST DAYS. 

But even in the cities now given over to European 
manners, the pretty customs concerning children still 
remain. The Feast of the Dolls, on the third day of 
the third month, is regularly observed. 

All the family dolls are brought together in some 
public place, dressed in their most gorgeous gowns. 
Some of the dolls and their gowns may have been in 
the family for a hundred years. The grown folks are 
as much interested in these feasts and plays as the 

4 



so 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



young people. On tliat account some one lias called 
Japan " the paradise of children." 

The boys are as much interested in this day as the 
girls; but it is not regarded so much their day as is the 
Feast of Flags, which comes later. On that day every 




Japanese Stringed Instruments 



kind of banner to be imagined is floated from poles, 
houses, and every available place. 

On each of these feast days the children, dressed in 
their best, play their games, which to us appear very 
uninteresting, listen to grandmother stories, that are 
even less interesting to us, and go to bed as happy and 
contented, if not even more so, as any children in the 
world. 

THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. 

It was a happy chance that led us to visit the zoolog- 
ical gardens at Osaka, considered the finest in all Japan. 
The grounds were beautifully kept and the animals 
were housed after the most approved methods. A typ- 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 5 1 

ical bruin from the jungles of Yezo performed the usual 
bear antics, and as a reward was given tid-bits in the 
form of sliced cucumbers by a little Japanese boy who 
seemed to be enraptured with the place. We, too, in- 
dulged in the pastime, for the privilege of which we 
were requested to pay five sens. 

In the next cage was a wolf similar to our Reynard, 
and from the traditions related of him, he is quite as 
cunning in the far East as in the West. The peasantry 
believe him to be in league with all evil spirits or dev- 
ils, and to be himself the very incarnation of craft and 
wickedness. Nevertheless, fox hunters are expert in 
catching this animal, his hair being much prized for mak- 
ing the reed pencils for painting and writing, used here. 

A beautiful specimen of the reindeer was attractively 
housed near by. This animal is seldom hunted by 
Japanese sportsmen. As they have no packs of hounds 
for the chase of the deer or the fox, the nobility leave 
that to those ignoble hunters who must kill their game 
for profit. 

A colony of small animals similar to the weasel were 
playing like little children under the thatched roof of 
their cage, and this, I am told, is a common sight, for 
they are very tame and fearless here. 

The ornithological department was quite complete 
considering the scarcity of sea and land species. There 
were great eagles with penetrating eyes that seemed to 
look straight through one. Gorgeous peacocks proudly 
displayed their splendid plumage ; lovely, soft gray par- 
rots, with pink and white spots artistically dotted over 
them, and doves and pigeons galore. But sweetest of 
all were the love-birds in their little bamboo houses. 



52 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



We were loatB, indeed, to tear ourselves away from 
the interesting spot, but time was flying, and we has- 
tened away to other sights and sounds. On our way 
to Kobe, in the evening, we saw many crows, pigeons 
and common sparrows, but it is noticeable that nearly 
all of the feathered tribe are of the European type. 
The crow, particularly, is a salient feature of the Jap- 
anese landscape, especially at Yezo, where there are 




Japanese; Fish. 

literally millions of them. This crow is considerably 
larger than the species we see in America, being about 
the size of a raven, and fully a match in strength and 
courage for small dogs. 

TYPICAL JAPANESE PROVERBS. 

There is no medicine for a fool. 
You can not rivet a nail in potato custard. 
He wishes to do both — to eat the poisoned delicacy, 
and live. 



A litTl^ journey to japan. 53 

By searching the old, learn the new. 

The rat-catching cat hides her claws. 

If you keep a tiger, you will have nothing but trouble. 

An ugly woman shuns the looking-glass.. 

To aim a gun in the darkness. In vain. 

The more words, the less sense. 

Like the peeping of a blind man through a hedge. 

A charred stick is easily kindled. 

Who steals money is killed ; who steals a country, is 
a king. 

If you do not enter the tiger's den, you can not get 
her cub. 

In mending the horn, he killed the ox. 

Bven a monkey sometimes falls from a tree. 

Hxcess of politeness becomes impoliteness. 

A blind rhan does not fear a snake. 

Poverty can not overtake diligence. 

If you call down a curse on anyone, look out for two 
graves. 

While the hunter looks afar after birds, they fly up 
and escape at his feet. 

Everyone suffers either from his pride or sinfulness. 

Bven a calamity, left alone for three years, may turn 
into a fortune. 

No danger of a stone being burned. 

Even a running horse needs the whip. 

Regard an old man as thy father. 

The fortune-teller can not tell his own fortune. 

The doctor does not keep himself well. 

A narrow-minded man looks at the heavens through 
a needle's eye. 

The beaten soldier fears even the tops of the tall grass. 



54 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



POLITENESS AND SELF=POSSESSION. 

It is said that nothing in the character of the Japan- 
ese people is so remarkable as their constant self- 
possession. Does not Scripture say something to the 
effect that he who ruleth himself is better than he who 
taketh a city ? Who can give the exact quotation? 

Then are the Japa- 
nese to be admired? 
They lose their tem- 
per only under the 
most extreme cir- 
cumstances. Unless 
necessary, they re- 
gard it as ill-bred, 
impolite, and even 
wicked to show either 
distress or anger. 
The visible sign of 
this is their smile. 
The English proverb 
is, " Think twice be- 
-#^<^g^ ^"^^s*^ £Qj.g ^^ speak, " the 

Japanese Female Minstrei^s. -^ ... 

Japanese advice is 

that you must always smile before you speak. 




THE JAPANESE SfllLE. 

It must indeed be a very bad person who can harbor 
wicked intentions behind a smile. Try it. Sometime 
when you are angry, smile and see if the bad thoughts 
do not fly away like owls before a sunrise. 

Among the many stories told by travellers in Japan 



A I.ITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 55 

illustrating this secret of the people's self-control, we 
give here a good example. 

The traveller says: " One day as I was driving down 
from the Bluff, I saw an empty kuruma coming up on 
the wrong side of the curve. I could not have pulled up if 
I had tried ; but I didn't try, because I didn't think 
there was any particular danger. I only yelled to the 
man in Japanese to get to the other side of the road; 
instead of which he simply backed his kuruma against 
a wall on the lower side of the curve, with the shafts 
outward. At the rate I was going, there wasn't room 
even to swerve ; and the next minute one of the shafts 
of that kuruma was in my horse's shoulder. The man 
wasn't hurt at all. When I saw the way my horse was 
bleeding I quite lost my temper, and struck the man 
over the head with the butt of my whip. He looked 
right into my face and smiled, and then bowed. I can 
see that smile now. I felt as if I had been knocked 
down. The smile utterly nonplused me, — killed all 
my anger instantly. Mind you, it was a polite smile. 
But what did it mean ? Why did the man smile? I 
can't understand it." 

To be able to answer the traveller's question, we 
must read what is said of the Japanese smile by 
Lafcadio Hearn who knows those people so intimately, 
and writes of them so beautifully. 

He says, " A Japanese can smile in the teeth of death, 
and usually does. But he then smiles for the same 
reason that he smiles at other times. There is neither 
defiance nor hypocrisy in the smile ; nor is it to be con- 
founded with that smile of sickly resignation which we 
are apt to associate with weakness of character. It is 
an elaborate and long-cultivated etiquette. 



56 



A UTTlvK JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



*'The smile is taught like the bow; like tlie prostra- 
tion; like that little sibilant sucking-in of the breath 
which follows, as a token of pleasure, the salutation to 
a superior ; like all the elaborate and beautiful etiquette 
of the old courtesy. Laughter is not encouraged, for 
obvious reasons. But the smile is to be used upon all 




The Feast of Doiyi^s — A Japanese Home on the Third Day 
OE THE Third Month. 

pleasant occasions, when speaking to a superior or to 
an equal, and even upon occasions which are not pleas- 
ant ; it is a part of deportment. The most agreeable 
face is the smiling face ; and to present always the 
most agreeable face possible to parents, relatives, 
teachers, friends, well-wishers, is a rule of life. And 
furthermore, it is a rule of life to turn constantly to 
tjie outer world a mien of happiness, to convey toothers 
as far as possible a pleasant impression. Bveu though 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. f 57 

the heart is breaking, it is a social duty to smile 
bravely. On the other hand, to look serious or unhappy 
is rude, because this may cause anxiety or pain to 
those who love us ; it is likewise foolish, since it may 
excite unkindly curiosity on the part of those who love 
us not. Cultivated from childhood as a duty, the 
smile soon becomes instinctive. In the mind of the 
poorest peasant lives the conviction that to exhibit the 
expression of one's personal sorrow or pain or anger is 
rarely useful, and always unkind. Hence, although 
natural grief must have, in Japan as elsewhere, its 
natural issue, an uncontrollable burst of tears in the 
presence of siiperiors or guests is an impoliteness ; and 
the first words of even the most unlettered country- 
woman, after the nerves give way in such a circum- 
stance, are invariably : ' Pardon my selfishness in that 
I have been so rude ! ' 

"The graver the subject the more accentuated the 
smile ; and when the matter is very unpleasant to the 
person speaking of it, the smile often changes to a low, 
soft laugh. However bitterly the mother who has lost 
her first-born may have wept at the funeral, it is prob- 
able that, if in your service, she will tell of her 
bereavement with a smile. " 

In America we regard it as abominable coarseness 
and callousness for any one under such circumstances 
to seem unmoved by grief, much less to smile. 

But it is the Japanese teaching that, to exhibit your 
grief, is to distress others, and to distress others is a 
great sin. 

The servant sentenced to dismissal for a fault pros- 
trates himself, and asks for pardon with a smile. That 




58 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

smile indicates the very reverse of callousness or 
insolence : " Be assured that I am satisfied with the 
great justice of your honorable sentence, and that I am 

now aware of the gravity of my 
fault. Yet my sorrow and my 
necessity have caused me to 
indulge the unreasonable hope 
that I may be forgiven for my 
Srrvakt before' HER great rudeness in asking par- 
master. don" Xhe youth or girl beyond 

the age of childish tears, when punished for some error, 
receives the punishment with a smile which means : 
''No evil feeling arises in my heart ; much worse than 
this my fault has deserved." 

THE RELIGION OF BUDDHA. 
Mr. Hearn refers all this wonderful calmness to the 
religion of Buddha, which, above all things, teaches self- 
control and self-suppression. 

For example, it says : "If a man conquer in battle a 
thousand times a thousand, and another conquer him- 
self, he who conquers himself is the greatest of con- 
querors. Not even a god can change into defeat the 
victory of the man who has vanquished himself." 

It is true that the wonderful island is full of absurd 
superstitions and much gross idolatry, which in truth 
are typical of the sins of the people; for it must not be 
supposed that they have not their share of wickedness 
and evil. 



I 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



59 



INDUSTRIES AND PRODUCTIONS. 

Japan could very well be a hermit kingdom, like 
Corea, as long as it pleased, since its soil and its moun- 
tains bear all that the people need. 

It is rich in gold, silver, copper, lead, mercury, tin, 
coal, sulphur, and salt. Iron is also to be found, and 
of excellent quality, but as it is in the form of mag- 
netic oxide the cost of smelting it, is burdensome. A 
great variety of the softer building stones are found in 
almost every province, together with granite, porphyry. 



gneiss, freestone, 
jaspers of great 
and small gar- 
constantly. There 
other country in 



etc. Agates and 
size and beauty, 
nets, are met with 
is, perhaps, no 
the world of the 




Spinning, Painting, and Writing. 

same extent that produces such a variety of conifers or 
timber in greater abundance. The mulberry-tree grows 
wild; and the varnish-tree, from which the celebrated 
lacquer is made, also yields oil and vegetable tallow. 
Apples, pears, plums, apricots, peaches, pomegranates, 
figs, oranges, lemons, grapes, etc., abound. Raw silk 
is the most important export of Japan, although a large 



6o 'A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

trade is done in tea, bronzes, tobacco, earthenware, 
screens, sunshades, fans, and countless other articles of 
manufacture. Its staple production is rice, of which 
an immense amount is consumed and exported annu- 
ally. 

SILK AND SILKWORHS. 

The silk industry being the most important in the 
commerce of Japan with foreign countries, we will give 
here a full description of silk-making. 

The silk districts and villages are always thriving, 
prosperous, exquisitely kept, and happy communities. 
Bach house is converted into a silkworm nursery, and 
often into a factory as well, where every member of the 
family, from the smallest child who is capable of doing 
even the humblest little task, to the parents and aged 
grandparents, share in the delightful work of rearing 
the wriggling creatures. 

Silkworm raising is divided into two principal 
branches, ope, that of the production of the eggs, the 
other that of silk spinning. Upon the first depends the 
breed of silkworms and the yield of fine cocoons. The 
silkworm eggs are generally termed " seed " by silk 
raisers. They are nearly round, slightly flattened, and 
in size resemble turnip seed. When first deposited 
they are of a light yellow color, then they turn to dark 
lilac, and sometimes to dark green, according to breed. 
And thus eggs of the first quality are distinguished by 
their size, color, and by the cleanliness of the paste- 
boards. For the hatching of the eggs, the boards are 
taken out of the boxes toward the last of March and 
placed in a well-ventilated room. The hatching occurs 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



6i 



ten days later, and what looked like so much, sandpaper a 
few hours Before will soon fill the waiting trays with tiny 
white worms. These newcomers are immediately fed 
with mulberry leaves, which are hashed and sifted very 
fine. Daily the worms are lifted to fresh trays by 




Feeding the Worms Before Third Casting. 



means of chopsticks, for the fingers are too rough and 
strong for much handling. 

The worms grow very rapidly, and therefore require 
to be fed on an average of five times daily ; three times 
a day in damp weather ; six, seven, or eight times in hot 
weather, or whenever it is dry and the wind dries the 
litter. 

For a week at a time the tiny gluttons crawl and eat, 
shedding their skins at intervals of several days ; then 
they take a day and night of sleep, maintaining this 



62 A LITTLH JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

routine for five weeks. Wlien they liave grown large 
enough, they begin to wind themselves up in cocoons — 
those lovely silken houses in which no opening of any 
sort can be discovered. In these houses the worms 
change their shape and appearance, each one becoming 
a chrysalis, and finally emerging from its imprisoned 
habitation in the shape of a small, cream-colored butter- 
fly. The butterfly lives without food for a few days, 
then dies. The female deposits for the next season 
from three hundred and fifty to four hundred eggs. 
When the worms are preparing for the long sleep, a 
layer of rice bran is placed on the paper on which they 
lie, and above it a sort of thread covered with chopped 
mulberry leaves. The following day toward noon, the 
worms are all perched upon the thread, which is next 
cautiously shifted to another place, in order to change 
the litter. This operation is repeated twice between 
each sleep, according to the atmospheric variations. 
The next day after their sleep only one meal is given 
them. Thereafter the rations are increased in accord- 
ance with certain rules. The three sleeps require the 
same sort of care, the one as the other. Only at the 
fourth sleep must the worms be taken up by the hand 
instead of allowing them to get up. Three days after- 
wards whole leaves are given them. 

The Japanese are close observers, and when they 
notice that the worms want to spin, fresh leaves are 
supplied them six or seven times a day and even during 
the night. When the worms crawl up to the edges of 
the basket, they are taken one by one and put back into 
their places. For this purpose colga stalks are also used. 
When the worm has come to maturity, special care is 



A LIl'l'L^ JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 63 

taken to keep the nursery well aired and cleansed. 
Any want of attention in this respect would be very 
detrimental to the health of the worm. Indeed, too 
much stress cannot be laid upon the care of silkworms, 
for there are a great number of deadly diseases liable to 
be engendered by atmospheric changes. Cold, heat, 
humidity and dryness are some of the causes of death 
unless one has a wide experience and special intelli- 
gence to apply to the case. 

During the whole period of laying and hatching a 
temperature of seventy to eighty degrees is maintained, 
and in cold weather the heating is kept up with braziers 
full of glowing charcoal set about the room. 

The establishment of the nursery is of paramount 
importance to these connoisseurs. It is usually com- 
posed of a ground floor and a first story with a south- 
east exposure. Half of the ground floor is occupied by 
the raiser ; the rest is used to hold the mulberry leaves. 
As to the breeding, it is done on the first floor, which is 
accessible by two staircases, and which also communi- 
cates by a trapdoor with the lower floor. The roof is 
composed of boards in juxtaposition and covered with 
tiles ; upon the arris of this roof is erected another. 
Windows open upon four sides for ventilation, each one 
being supplied with a spring-roller blind. The walls 
are in rough coated wood. 

Even silkworms have their enemies. As in our own 
country, rats and mice are very fond of silkworms, and 
will use every means to reach them, one rat often de- 
stroying hundreds of them in a single night. Ants also 
have to be guarded against, especially the red ant, 
which is very destructive, eating the worms gradually 



64 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

and stinging tliem to death. Birds, too, will fly into 
tlie cocoonery and seize them almost before one's eyes. 
However, the pets are protected by suspending the 
pasteboards in an airy chamber, where they are care- 
fully watched. 

The evenness of silkworms is considered of great 
importance by the Japanese, as they reckon the age 
of the worms by the number of meals eaten, and not 
by the days they have spent from their birth. Their 
appetite, too, depends upon the temperature. In cold 
weather they are benumbed and eat but little ; hence 
the rule to feed plentifully in warm weather. When 
the Japanese wish to bring the worms to the same 
age, the first day's hatch is taken to a room where it 
is somewhat cooler than the others are. They are fed 
only twice or three times a day. Meantime the second 
day's hatch is fed five or six times a day until it over- 
takes the first, and so on. The third and fourth are 
pushed forward in like manner by warmth and numer- 
ous feeds, and if possible they are put through the molt 
at the same time. When it is desirable to prevent an 
egg from being hatched at the usual time, from the 
period of being laid, it is kept at a temperature between 
fifty-nine and sixty degrees, and is then exposed four- 
teen days to cold. To cause an egg to hatch before the 
usual time, they expose it to cold twenty days after 
being laid and keep it in that condition for two months. 
Six weeks later it will be in the same condition as an 
ordinary egg, and can be treated in the same manner. 

Last, but not least, comes the process of unwinding 
the silkworms fifty days after their formation. Some- 
times they are exposed to the sun between two sheets 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 65 

of paper. Or, mayliap, they are placed above boiling 
water. Again, they are put in a very tight drawer and 
turned over from time to time. Finally, camphor may 
be put in the box containing them. At any rate the 
whirling reel soon changes the yellow balls into great 
skeins of shining silk, ready to be twisted, tied and 
woven either at home or across the blue seas. Silk is 
the most valuable article of export which Japan pro- 
duces, and raw silk to the value of thirty millions of 
yens (dollars) goes annually to foreign consumers, 
while at home seven millions of yens' worth of manu- 
factured fabrics are used. This will give some idea of 
the silkworm industry in the little isle across the 
Pacific. 

THE RICE FIELDS. 

But of greater importance in the life of the people 
than silk raising is the product of the rice fields. 

The rice plant is a kind of grass which thrives best 
in low, damp land, as it needs a great deal of water. It 
must be set out in the wet season. At this time we 
may see both men and women standing in mud and 
water, busy at their work in the rice fields. They wear 
large hats which look like inverted bowls, and rain 
coats made of straw or oiled paper. After the seed has 
been sown, the field is usually flooded with water several 
inches deep until the seeds sprout. The water is then 
drawn off, but the field is again flooded before the grain 
ripens, and the higher the water rises, the higher the 
rice grows, the ^ar always keeping above the water. It 
commonly grows three or four feet high, and bears its 
grain in heads, much like oats. 
5 



66 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



A few days before the rice is ready to cut, the water 
is drawn off from the field and the grain is cut with 
sickles and spread out to dry. The next day it is tied 
up in sheaves or bundles, carried onto dry ground, and 
piled up in stacks. The rice is separated from the 
straw in a threshing machine, from which it comes out 
with the husk on. The husk is taken off in a mill, 
where the rice passes between large grinding stones, 




Drinking Saki. 

which rub it ofP and leave the grains white and clear. 
As many of the grains are broken in this grinding, the 
rice is then turned round and round in a barrel made 
of wire netting, the meshes of which grow larger toward 
the bottom. In this way it is divided into several kinds : 
first the flour falls through the fine netting at the top, 
then the small pieces through the next larger holes, 
then the "middling " rice or large pieces pass through, 
and lastly the whole grains fall out at the end. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. d'] 

Rice is the principal food of nearly a third of the 
human race, mostly in hot climates. 

The Japanese make a kind of beer called saki out of 
rice, which may be called the national intoxicating 
drink. 

TEA PLANTATIONS. 

The tea fields are usually on the sides of the hills, 
the rice being grown in the low lands. A new planta- 
tion is made by sowing the seed in holes at proper dis- 
tances, two or three seeds being put into a hole to 
secure a plant. The first crop is obtained in the third 
year, when the shrub is by no means full grown. When 
about seven years old, it yields only a scanty crop of hard 
leaves, and is cut down, when new shoots rise from the 
root and bear fine leaves in abundance. This is re- 
peated from time to time, till the plant dies at about the 
age of 30 years. 

Teas are of two kinds, green and black teas, which 
are made from the same leaves, but are cured differ- 
ently. When the leaves are dried quickly they make 
green tea, but when they are allowed to dry slowly, so 
that they ferment or work a little, they turn black and 
make black tea. The leaves are fifst slightly dried in 
shallow baskets in the sun, and are then put, a few at 
a time, in an iron or copper pan, heated usually over a 
charcoal fire, and stirred until they are dry enough, 
when they are emptied upon a table, where other work- 
men roll them with their hands into the little rolls in 
which we see them. They are afterward dried again, 
sorted, and made ready for packing. 

The Japanese have a legend to explain the origin of 



68 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

tea. They say that a priest, who went from India to 
China about the beginning of the sixth century, fell 
asleep one day when he wished to watch and pray, and 
in a moment of anger cut off his eyelids and threw them 
on the ground, where they grew into the tea shrub, the 
leaves of which are good to prevent sleep. 

HOW JAPAN WAS OPENED TO THE COMMERCE AND 
CIVILIZATION OF THE WORLD. 

Naturally, those nations or individuals that see only 
themselves and contemplate from time immemorial only 
their own vanities, come to believe themselves the 
supreme people of the world, and that all others are 
barbarians. That was the way with Japan, when the 
whaling vessels of New Bedford, Massachusetts, during 
the administrations of James K. Polk, began to pass 
along the coasts of the hermit empire. 

The first special and systematic attempt to open 
diplomatic communciations with that unknown people 
was made by. President Polk when he sent Commodore 
Biddle with the battleship Columbus and the sloop of 
war Vincennes, bearing a letter to His Imperial Maj- 
esty, the Bmperor of Japan. 

The letter may*be condensed as follows: — 

" I send you, by this letter, an envoy of my own 
appointment, an officer of high rank in his country, 
who is no missionary of religion. He goes by my 
command to bear to you my greeting and good wishes, 
and to promote friendship and commerce between the 
two countries. 

" You know that the United States of America now 
extend from sea to sea; that the great countries of 



A UtTtn JOURNEY l^O JAPAN. 69 

Oregon and California are parts of the United States ; 
and tliat from these countries, which are rich in gold 
and silver and precious stones, our steamers can reach 
the shores of your happy land in less than twenty 
days. 

" Many of our ships will now pass every year, and 
some, perhaps, every week, between California and 
China ; these ships must pass along the coasts of your 
empire ; storms and winds may cause them to be 
wrecked on your shores, and we ask and expect from 
your friendship and your greatness, kindness for our 
men and protection for our property. We wish that 
our people may be permitted to trade with your people ; 
but we shall not authorize them to break any law of 
your empire. 

" Our object is friendly commercial intercourse, and 
nothing more." 

The American ships arrived at Yedo Bay in July, 
1846. They were at once surrounded by four hundred 
or more guard boats, each containing from five to 
twenty men. An inferior official climbed aboard the 
sloop or stuck a Chinese symbol, tied to a stick, at 
each end of the vessel. This meant that they had 
taken possession of the ship. The officer commanded 
the symbols to be taken down and returned to the 
Japanese official. 

Then a man who could speak Dutch came aboard, 
but nothing further was accomplished than delivering 
the president's letter to a courier who was to take it to 
the emperor. It probably got no further than the first 
official. 

In seven days an answer came. 



70 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

" No trade will be allowed with any foreign nation 
but Holland." 

The commodore could do nothing more, and with that 
unsatisfactory result he returned to the United States. 

During that year, a Japanese boat was driven out to 
sea by a storm. The sailors were rescued by an Amer- 
ican vessel and carried to San Francisco. There they 
were well-treated, and at last returned to their country 
with an exalted opinion of the people they had before 
regarded as barbarians. One of them, a boy, remained 
and was educated in this country. He returned to 
Japan as an interpreter, and was very useful in reform- 
ing the sentiment of his country about us. 

In 1849, some of our sailors were cast upon the shore 
of Japan from the wreck of the whaler Lagoda. They 
were thrown into prison, and Commodore Geisinger 
sent the gunboat Preble under Commander Glynn to 
demand their release. 

The ceremonies and petty obstructions by which 
they tried to - delay compliance with his demand were 
so silly as to be exasperating to the Americans. They 
wanted time in which to consult the wishes of the 
emperor, but the commander said, " Just three days and 
no more." 

They understood the threat, and the next day the 
sailors were sent aboard. 

The Preble returned home, and after several moves 
that were not carried out, Commodore Matthew Perry, 
brother of Oliver Perry, the hero of Lake Erie, was sent 
with four essels to open Japan to the commerce and 
civilization of the world. 

On July 8, 1853, he anchored in Yedo Bay. The 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



7i 



order was given : " No one allowed to go ashore, no 
person from the shore to be allowed on board." 

The Japanese historian writing of that event at the 
time, says : — 

" When the barbarian anchored his fleet in Yedo Bay 











Going Home; from A Day's Work. 

orders were sent by the imperial court to the Shinto 
priests at Is 6 to offer up prayers for the sweeping-away 
of the barbarians." Millions of earnest hearts put up 
the same prayers as their fathers had done in their vic- 
torious conflicts and wars with China, fully expecting 
the same result. 

All the barbarians that had been there before had 



^2 A LIl'TLB JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

quietly submitted to every order given by the first offi- 
cer coming aboard, and who was always the most infe- 
rior. So the Japanese had contempt for all foreigners 
who had no more character than to obey the least of 
their officers. 

This time one after another of the ranking officers 
were refused admittance or audience until the governor 
himself was compelled to return ashore without even a 
word from any one but the common sailors. These 
strange visitors treated all of them as if the lord of all 
nations was himself seated on the mysterious throne of 
the wonderful volcano-ship. These strangers disre- 
garded all orders, and acted as if they owned the 
earth. 

The governor returned in impressive state, but it 
was Sunday, and he was told that even the emperor 
himself could not visit them that day on business. 

Then the regent of Yedo played emperor, and sent 
two squires whom he said were illustrious princes to 
receive the president's letter. Commodore Perry had 
no means of knowing the truth, and so in pompous state, 
the commander and his staff in glittering gold lace 
went ashore with three hundred marines dressed as on 
parade. Two of the largest sailors carried the stars 
and stripes, and two little boys bore the gold casket 
containing the letter, guarded by two stalwart negroes. 

The two sham princes were in a temporary shed 
erected for the purpose, and one of them, introduced as 
"The First Councilor of the Empire," received the 
letter. 

Then after pretending to read it through an inter- 
preter this reply was given : " We have received the 



A Ul^TLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 73 

letter of the President of tlie United States of North 
America. We have let you know that we don't care 
about having foreigners here, and if you want anything 
from us you must go to Nagasaki. Your mysterious 
Great Man made us believe that he would be insulted 
if we did not receive the letter at this place. Very 
well, we have done so. The answer we will give you 
later, and now you may go home." 

" All right," said Commodore Perry. " And when 
shall I call for an answer? Give yourself plenty of 
time. Don't be too anxious to see me soon ! Suppose 
we say April or May next year ! I will return for the 
answer with more ships." Then he returned aboard. 

He went to Hong Kong to refit and repair his ships. 
Hearing from the Dutch that the emperor was dead, and 
thinking it was a trick to deceive him, although it 
proved not so, he sailed again for Japan in January of 
the next year. This time he had a more imposing fleet 
of nine ships. 

Then commenced again the remarkable deceptions 
and continuous play for delay ; but Commodore Perry 
anchored close to the city and demanded a favorable 
answer to the President's letter in the form of a 
treaty. 

The authorities claimed that a treaty could be nego- 
tiated only at certain places far inland. Perry said the 
shore next to his fleet was good enough place for him, 
and that he would allow them only five days more. 
The sons of heaven and the descendants of the gods, as 
they claimed to be, must have a treaty ready by that 
time or the Great Man in the ships would be angry and 
there was no telling what might then happen. It was 



74 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

then arranged to have the negotiations take place at 
Yokohoma. 

It is said that there was one spectator upon the bluffs 
at Yokohama who was persuaded in his own mind that 
the men who could build such ships as those ; who 
were so gentle, kind, patient, firm ; having force, yet 
using it not ; demanding to be treated as equals, and in 
return dealing with Japanese as with equals, could not 
be barbarians. If they w^ere, it were better for the 
Japanese to become barbarous. That man was Katsu, 
afterward the great Secretary of the Japanese Navy. 

The people of Yokohama saw the blazing beacon-fires 
of the steamers, and heard the breathless messengers 
tell the tale of the wondrous apparition of mighty ships 
moving swiftly without wind, tide, or oars. They felt 
the first pulses of a new life stir within them as they 
talked that night before their huts in the sultry evening. 
Their idea of a steamer was, that these Western foreign- 
res, who were not men, but half beasts, half sorcerers, had 
power to taane a volcano, condense its power in their 
ships, and control it at will. That night, as the spark- 
spangled clouds of smoke pulsed out of the fire-breath- 
ing smoke-stacks of the steamers, which were kept 
under steam in readiness for attack, many an eager 
prayer, prompted by terror at the awful apparition, 
went up from the hearts of the simple people, who anx- 
iously awaited the issue of the strange visit. 

During all the time in which Commodore Perry's 
fleet lay at anchor, or steamed at will over their sacred 
waters, the surveying boats were busy extorting the 
secrets of the water, its danger and its depth. No 
drunken sailor roamed on the land, none of the quiet 



I 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 75 

natives were beaten, robbed, or molested. Tlie mighty 
mind of tbe gentle commodore extended to the hum- 
blest minutiae of discipline, and his all-comprehending 
genius won victory without blood. The natives had 
the opportunity of gaining clearer ideas as to what sort 
of beings the strange visitors were. In those days even 
the proudest samurai were convinced of the power of 
the Western nations. Familiarity bred no contempt of 
American prowess, while for the first time they saw 
their own utterly defenseless condition. Long, tedious 
discussions followed the first meeting at Yokohoma and 
at last the treaty, agreed to in all its parts, was signed 
on March 31, 1854. 

Then the presents sent by the President of the 
United States to His Imperial Majesty, Bmperor of 
Japan, were delivered. 

There was a little locomotive that would draw a train 
of cars for several minutes on a miniature railroad, a 
complete telegraph outfit with a mile of wire, a sewing 
machine, clocks, and numerous articles unknown to the 
Japanese. In return the Japanese presented the presi- 
dent with lacquer, bronze, porcelain, ivory, silk, and 
numerous other articles peculiar to them. 

The articles given by the United States never got 
farther than the house of the tycoon or governor, and 
there they rusted and perished in neglect. 

The articles given by the Japanese are still to be 
seen carefully labelled in glass cases in the Smith- 
sonian Institute at Washington. 



76 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAlSf. 

CHRISTIANITY IN JAPAN. 

St. Francis Xavier was the first Christian priest to 
visit Japan. The daimio, or provincial ruler, was al- 
ready on favorable terms with Portuguese traders when 
this good man arrived in the year 1542. The Buddhist 
priests at this time were so powerful and oppressive 
that the people welcomed the new religion, and so many 
converts were made that four representatives of noble 
birth were sent to visit the pope in Rome. 

St. Xavier learned little of the language, but he had 
an interpreter who was obtained, as he relates, in this 
way : A native of Satsuma named Anjiro, who, having 
killed a man, had fled to a Portuguese boat, and was 
carried off. After the long sufferings of remorse he 
reached Goa, becoming a convert to Christianity. 
Lfearning to read and write Portuguese, and having 
mastered the whole Christian doctrine, he became Xa- 
vier's interpreter. To the question whether the Jap- 
anese would be likely to accept Christianity, Anjiro 
answered - — in words that seem fresh, pertinent, and to 
have been uttered but yesterday, so true are they still 
— that according to the language of St. Xavier, "his 
people would not immediately assent to what might be 
said to them, but they would investigate what I might 
af&rm respecting religion by a multitude of questions, 
and, above all, by observing whether my conduct agreed 
with my words. This done, the king (daimio), the 
nobility, and adult population would flock to Christ, 
being a nation which always follows reason as a guide." 

Spanish and Portuguese priests began to come in 
large numbers, and the new religion progressed rap- 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. ']^ 

idly. The time of the highest success of the mission- 
aries in Japan was, according to their own figures, six 
hundred thousand — a number which is no exaggera- 
tion, the quantity, not quality, being considered. The 
Japanese, less accurately, set down a total of two mil- 
lion nominal adherents to the Christian sects, large 
numerical statements in Japanese books being untrust- 
worthy, and often worthless. Among their converts 
were several princes, and large numbers of lords and 
gentlemen in high official position, generals and cap- 
tains in the army, and the admiral and officers of the 
Japanese fleets. Several of the ladies of the households 
of the reigning families, besides influential women of 
noble blood in many provinces whose rulers were not 
Christians, added to their power, while at the seat of 
government the chief interpreter was a Jesuit father. 
Churches, chapels, and residences of the fathers were 
numbered by thousands, and in some provinces crosses 
and Christian shrines were as numerous as the kindred 
evidences of Buddhism had been before. The fathers 
and friars had t^raveled or preached from one end of the 
western half of Hondo to the other. 

But the priests refused to obey the ridiculous laws 
and customs they found there so repugnant to them, 
openly defying the officers of the government. They 
were the champions of the enslaved poor who had never 
before dreamed of resisting their oppressors, and this 
made them enemies among the most powerful. 

In 1609 the Dutch arrived, and as Holland was at 
war with Spain and Portugal both as a nation and in 
religion, those that were opposed to the Catholic Chris- 
tianity found a valuable aid in the Protestant Chris- 



78 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

tianity of the Dutch, the religious controversy, as in 
other countries, became a life-and-death struggle for 
political supremacy. Persecution of the Catholic Chris- 
tians raged from 1614 until it reached the total exclu- 
sion of all in 1637, when a Dutch ship captured a Por- 
tuguese ship bearing a letter to the king of Portugal 
from Japanese conspirators asking for ships and soK 
diers to overthrow the government and set up a Chris- 
tian kingdom. 

The Dutch lost no time in delivering this letter to 
the government of Japan, and then the law was passed 
excluding all foreigners from Japan, excepting under 
certain restrictions the traders of Holland. 

The clause that kept foreign nations out until the 
arrival of Perry was about as follows : — 

" No Japanese ship or boat, or any native of Japan, 
shall henceforth presume to quit the country, under 
pain of forfeiture and death ; any Japanese returning 
from a foreign country shall be put to death ; no 
nobleman. or samurai shall be suffered to purchase any- 
thing of a foreigner ; any person presuming to bring 
a letter from abroad, or to return to Japan after he has 
been banished, shall die, with all his family, and whoso- 
ever presumes to intercede for such offenders shall be 
put to death." 

More than forty thousand native Christians were 
massacred at the siege of Shimabara, and many thou- 
sands elsewhere within a few months. 

Christianity was almost wholly suppressed, so that 
hardly a trace remained when Perry arrived. 

The real return of Christianity did not take place till 
after the revolution of 1868, when the ruling emperor 



! 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 79 

was deposed and the edict against the Christian reli- 
gion removed. 

Now the Japanese can 'believe as they please, except 
that it is a grave social offense for him to doubt the 
divinity of the emperor and the celestial origin of his 
nation. 

JAPANESE HISTORY. 

Japan has passed through the successive eras of tribal 
government, pure monarchy, feudalism, anarchy, and 
modern empire. Its ruling dynasty boasts of 46 cen- 
turies of unbroken succession, and claims descent from 
Jimmu Tenno, first mikado, a fabulous warrior, whose 
descent from the sun goddess is a matter of faith with 
the Japanese. They base upon it their claim of the 
mikado's divinity. The empire claims to have had a 
previous existence of 2,479 years, but its history dates 
from Jimmu, 667 b. c, and from his death until 571 
A. D., 31 mikados ruled. 

In 552 A. D. Buddhism was introduced into Japan, 
and thenceforth became a potent influence in the for- 
mation of character. 

In 1 184 Yoritomo became first shogun (a term mean- 
ing general), the dual system of government, which 
ended only in 1867. 

The government of Japan is now substantially as it 
was prior to the twelfth century, modified by the neces- 
sity of modern politics. The emperor is assisted by a 
Prim_e Minister and two Junior High Ministers. Under 
these are seven counsellors. The administrative gov- 
ernment is carried on by ten ministers, the heads of 
as many departments. In 1881 the Bmperor conferred 
upon the Empire the forms of a constitutional govern- 



8o 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



ment, and directed " that after 1890 Japan shall be gov- 
erned by a national assembly, the attributes of which 
we will settle hereafter." Formerly the country was 
divided into hundreds of petty prin- 
cipalities, with varying coinage, 
laws, customs, etc., and cursed with 
the spirit of sectionalism and clan- 
nishness. The empire is now ruled 
from one center; and national sys- 
tems of law, education, postage, 
coinage, and the details of adminis- 
tration are developing a higher 
type of national life. Among the 
reforms inaugurated and carried 
out by the Mikado's government 
are the abolition of the feudal sys- 
tem, a system of national posts 
and schools, the elevation of the 
Eta, or parrah, class to citizenship, 
the establishment of lighthouses, 
telegraphs, railways, dockyards, 
and most of the appliances of mod- 
ern invention, the opening of per- 
manent diplomatic relations with 
An Ancient Japanese War- foreign nations, and a general ad- 
vance along the path of modern 
progress. The laws of Japan, once so vindictive and 
cruel, are now in course of revision, and a new code, 
far more merciful, is in force. 

Since her marvelous awakening in the war with 
China, Japan has become one of the leading nations of 
the world. 




A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 8 1 

Japan is divided (since 1868) into three classes — no- 
blemen, gentry, and common people. The old caste 
system is practically abolished. The people of Japan 
are evidently a mixed breed of Malay, Mongolian, and 
Aino, or aboriginal, blood. They are in general well 
made, active, and supple, having yellow, or dark-red 
complexions, small, deep-set eyes, short, flattish noses, 
broad heads, and thick, black hair. The type of fea- 
tures varies greatly among the various classes, the oval 
face and prominent features being characteristic of the 
higher, and the round, flat face of the lower classes. 
The dress of the Japanese consists of several loose silken 
or cotton robes, worn over each other, the family arms 
being usually woven into the back and breast of the 
upper garment. To these is added, on state occasions, 
a robe of ceremony; and the aristocracy wear with it a 
sort of pantaloons called hakaina (resembling a full- 
plaited petticoat drawn up between the legs), with one 
or more swords, according to the rank of the parties. 
The old ceremonial dress, the swords, and the shaven 
crown and top-knot, are either wholly in desuetude or 
are rapidly disappearing. European dress has been 
largely adopted by officials and others of the male sex,^ 
but the women retain their ancient picturesque robes. 
Hats are in general only w^orn in rainy weather ; but 
the fan is an indispensable appendage to all classes of 
the Japanese. Their gait is awkward, owing partly to 
their clumsy shoes; but that of the women is the worst, 
in consequence of their so tightly bandaging their hips 
as to turn their feet inwards. On the other hand, they 
do not deform themselves by confining their feet in 
tight shoes, like the Chinese. The great bulk of the 



82 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

people appear intelligent, and desirous of increasing 
their knowledge by inquiries; they study medicine and 
other sciences, and some recent students have made 
scientific observations of great value. The Japanese 
language has no affinity to that of the Chinese, nor, in- 
deed, to any known Asiatic language, except that of the 
Ainos, who inhabit Yezo and Karafto. 

JAPANO=CHINESE WAR. 

The conflict of 1894-95 between the two great native 
powers of eastern Asia had its origin in an effort on the 
part of Japan to gain a controlling influence in Corea, 
and of China to make good her long dormant claim to 
suzerainty over the Corean kingdom. The liberal ele- 
ment in the Corean government had made treaties with 
foreign powers and opened ports to foreign trade, an 
action which gave rise to insurrections in 1884 and 
again in 1894 on the part of the conservative party of 
the nation. This action was strongly resented by 
China, who* requested Japan to withdraw, and sent 
troops to sustain the Corean government. Japan re- 
fused to withdraw until certain " reforms " were guar- 
anteed. On June 30, 1894, the Japanese party in the 
Corean administration declared that country to be inde- 
pendent of China and invoked Japanese aid. On Au- 
gust I war was formally proclaimed by Japan. Li Hung 
Chang, prime minister of China, had earnestly sought 
to avoid hostilities, knowing how illy his country was 
prepared for them, but now took vigorous measures to 
meet the threatened danger. During September and 
October campaigns took place in the Liao Tung penin- 
sula, in which the Japanese armies were uniformly sue- 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 



83 



cessful. The principal battle was fought at Ping Yang 
on September 15, and ended in a disastrous repulse of 
the Chinese, 16,000 of whose forces were killed, wounded, 

and captured, 
while the Japan- 
ese suffered but 
a trifling loss. 

Two days 
afterward, Sep- 
tember 1 7, occur- 
red one of the 
most notable 
naval battles on 
record, being the 
first in which ar- 
mored vessels, 
with modern ar- 
tillery, met in 
combat. This 
conflict took 
place off the 
mouth of the 
Yalu River, both 
sides fighting 
with great cour- 
age, but the Jap- 
anese proving 
superior in naval 
[tactics and in the performance of their artillery. The 
• battle ended in victory for the Japanese fleet, though it 
had suffered too severely to follow up its advantage. 
LThe remnant of the Chinese fleet made its way to Port 




Japanese God oe War. 



84 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

Arthur, a strongly fortified city at the southern ex- 
tremity of the Liao Tung peninsula. 

In January, the Japanese fleet advanced against the 
port of Wei Hai Wei, a fortified stronghold on the 
northern coast of China proper. A force of 25,000 land 
troops was successfully landed, and invested the strong- 
hold in the rear, attacking and quickly taking the land- 
ward forts. Wei Hai Wei was thereupon abandoned 
by its garrison and occupied by the Japanese without 
a fight, and the Chinese fleet, which held the harbor, 
now turned its guns against the fortifications which it 
had recently sought to defend. Several vessels of this 
fleet were destroyed by torpedo boats which the Japan- 
ese sent into the harbor, and the affair ended in the 
surrender of the Chinese fleet. China was now in a 
perilous position; its fleet destroyed and its two coast 
strongholds held by the enemy. A continuation of the 
war threatened to end in a complete conquest of the 
Chinese Empire, and Li Hung Chang, China's great 
statesman,, who had been degraded from his official 
positions in consequence of the continued disasters to 
the army, was restored to all his honors, and sent to 
Japan to sue for peace, with full powers to conclude a 
treaty. 

The skilled envoy endeavored to obtain favorable 
terms, but found himself obliged to accept the ulti- 
matum of Japan, and a treaty was signed April 15 ^ 
1895. 



TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT. 



A Little Journey to Japan. 

The class, or travel club, has now completed the study of 
Japan, and is ready for a review. In order to make this inter- 
esting, let the work be summed up in the form of an entertainment 
called^ 

AN AFTERNOON OR EVENING IN JAPAN. 

For the afternoons abroad, given as geography reviews, or as 
a part of the Friday afternoon exercises, invitations may be writ- 
ten out by the pupils, or mimeographed or hectographed, and 
carried to friends and parents. 

If given as an evening entertainment and illustrated by stere- 
opticon views, handbills may be printed and circulated, at least a 
week beforehand. The following form may be used: — 

SCHOOL ENTERTAINMENT. 

A TRIP TO JAPAN FOR TEJN CENTS. 

You are invited by the pupils of the school [or the 

members of the Travel Class or Club] to spend an evening {or 
afternoon') in Japan. 

The party starts promptly at i :3o p. m. (or 8 p. m.) the — . 
Those desiring to take this trip should secure tickets before the 
day of sailing, as the party is limited. Guides are furnished free. 

The proceeds of this entertainment are to be used in the pur- 
chase of a library and pictures for the school. 
ROOM DECORATION. 

The room may be hung and partially illuminated with bright- 
colored Japanese lanterns. I^arge and small paper parasols may be 
suspended from the ceiling, and two or three large ones on 
bamboo poles may be fastened to the floor. 



86 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

Small fans and lanterns depend from the edge of these para- 
sols and also from light arches of bamboo that have been con- 
structed over the door way. 

Festoons of lanterns and dragon-shaped paper kites may be 
hung from the windows. 

Under the large parasols place seats for the guests, and large 
Japanese vases of flowers. Fans may also be used in the deco- 
ration of the room in many ways. 

A number of these may be used as coverings for the earthen- 
ware pots of chrysanthemums and other plants set in the win- 
dows and on the platform. 

Each pot may be encircled by an extension fan, minus its 
brass fastenings, the sticks being held down by a ribbon band. 

In the center of the blackboard, print or write, "The Sunrise 
Kingdom," in large letters. A border of tiny Japanese flags 
may be placed across the blackboard with colored crayons, and a 
large one occupy the place of honor in the center. 

Pictures of the national flowers (the chrysanthemum and the 
plum blossom) should be placed about the room, if the flowers 
themselves can not be secured. 

Pictures of Japanese life and scenes may be pinned upon the 
walls. Japanese screens may be used to hide unsightly objects, 
and wall pockets may be hung upon the wall, and filled with 
flowers or photographs of Japanese views. 

A number of large cards bearing Japanese writing may be 
hung in different parts of the room, and copies of Japanese pic- 
tures and books may easily be borrowed for the occasion. 

Pictures of the young emperor and empress, the Japanese 
minister at Washington, and other noted personages, may be 
clipped from the monthly magazines and mounted. 

Bamboo tables, chairs, and settees may be given a place in the 
furnishing of the room for this afternoon. 

One corner of the room may be fitted up with booths, by 
using ^the screens, and -articles of Japanese workmanship or 
Japanese productions exhibited or offered for sale. 

Tiny perfumed pastils may be burned before the exercises and 
an odor of sandal wood (the popular Japanese perfume) may add 
its fragrance. 



REFRESHMENTS — COSTUMES. 87 

If pupils have not brought Japanese objects to school while 
the country was being studied, speak of making a loan collection, 
at least a week before the ' ' Afternoon in Japan. ' ' 

Ask each pupil to bring some article from home which came 
from Japan. Ask the pupils who have no Japanese articles to 
contribute to bring a sample of some product native to Japan. 

Upon the product table and in the booths exhibit bowls of 
rice, tea, wheat, millet, camphor, gum, opium poppy, mulberry, 
cypress wood oil, cuttle fish, copper, ginger, vegetable wax, cin- 
namon, cocoanuts, bananas, and other products. 

On another table or in a booth, arrange porcelain ware, carved 
articles, sandal wood, jade jewelry, sheet lead, mats, vases, lan- 
terns, fans, parasols, paper napkins and handkerchiefs, silks, 
baskets, balloons, kites, firecrackers, crape, lacquer ware, bam- 
boo articles, etc. 

REFRESHflENTS. 

Refreshments may be served from lacquered trays of Japanese 
make and paper napkins used. The food may be served in Jap- 
anese style upon very low platforms or tables, like elevations or 
mats, each person sitting upon the heels while eating. 

Rice and tea may be served in very tiny bowls and cups. 
Japanese fruits and sweetmeats may be bought at most large fruit 
and grocery stores, and served. 

Japanese ice cream is made of crushed ice sprinkled with 
sugar. 

COSTUriES. 

Pupils taking part in the exercises or serving refreshments, 
should be costumed in Japanese kanonas, wear Japanese shoes, 
sandals, or slippers, and carry fans. 

The kanonas or dresses may be made of any bright-figured 
cotton material, or of red or yellow cheese cloth or sateen. 

GIRLS' COSTUME. 

The girls' dress is a loose, comfortable garment which looks 
just like a dressing gown tied around the waist with a girdle. 
This may be made of any bright-flowered or figured cpttou 



88 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

material, or of bright red or yellow. The sleeves are made very 
long and wide, and as only a small part is needed for the arm, 
the rest is folded and sewed to form a large pocket; the sash 
must be wide, and tied in an immense bow behind. While in the 
house, only thick, white stockings are worn; these are made of 
cloth somewhat in the shape of a mitten, having a separate 
place for the big toe. When on the street, a thick, wood sandal 
or clog is used; this is kept in place by a single strap passing 
around between the toes and around the ankle. 

The hair should be loosely rolled back from the front and 
fastened into a big knot behind. Into this knot large pins may 
be placed, or the hair may be decorated with tiny fans and arti- 
ficial cherry blossoms. Bunches of chrysanthemums may be 
pinned upon the dress. 

COSTUHE FOR BOYS. 

Make a loose garment which looks like a dressing gown tied 
around the waist with a girdle. The sleeves of this garment are 
very wide and long, and as only a small part is needed for the 
arm, the rest is folded and sewed to form a big pocket. The 
boys wear a belt four or five inches wide. The trousers are 
made of dark blue, gray, or brown. 

Japanese shpes or sandals, white stockings, a fan, and a para- 
sol complete the outfit. The boy should have a smooth, dark 
face, stained a deep olive, and close-cut hair. 

AN AFTERNOON IN JAPAN. 

• PROGRAMME. 

1. Introductory remarks by the guide. 

2. Description of the ocean voyage from China to Japan, 
using a large map. ^ 

3. Recitation, "Japan," a poem. 

4. Brief history of China. 

5. Geography of the country, giving size, location, climate, 
principal cities, etc. 

6. Impressions of city life. 

7. Music, "Three Little Maids from School," a selection 
from the Mikado, with tableau, 



AN AI^TERNOON IN JAPAN. 89 

8. Homes and home life of the people. 

9. Amusements. 

10. Reading, "The Japanese Plum Festival." 

11. Reading, " The Flag Festival." 

12. Music, national air of Japan. 

13. How people travel. 

14. Child life. 

15. Reading, " The Doll Festival. " 

16. Education, A Japanese school. 

17. Reading, A Japanese fairy tale. 

18. Song, "The Japanese," from " Songs in Season." 

19. Japanese proverbs, or sayings (one to be recited by each 
member of the class without rising from the seat) . 

20. Places of interest in Japan. 

21. Japanese industries. 

22. Reading, "Bamboo." 

23. The war between China and Japan. 

24. Music. March, " From the lyittle Tycoon." 

25. Departure for home. 

25. Music, " Home, Sweet Home." 

The readings entitled ' ' Boys and Girls of Japan, " " The Doll 
Festival," and "The Flag Festival," may be found in Mac 
Millan's " Child I^ife," Part Three, or the Third Reader. 

A long and interesting poem entitled "Japan," which would 
make excellent recitations for two or three pupils may be found 
in " Christmas in Other I^ands," by Lydia Avery Coonley. The 
price of the book is twenty-five cents; published by A. Flanagan. 

The song entitled ' ' Japanese ' ' is exactly the thing for a Jap- 
anese Afternoon, and may be found in a song book entitled 
"Songs in Season," published by A. Flanagan. 

The "Story of the Tea," the " Story of the Teacup," and the 
" Story of Rice " will add much of interest to .the study of this 
country. 

A number of Japanese pictures useful for class work may be 
found in a booklet issued by the Southern Pacific Railway. 



9^ A ut'TliS; journey to japan. 

JAPANESE. 

(To be spoken by a small girl in Japanese costume. ) 
I've come from far-away Japan, 
The land of parasol and fan. 
Kingdom of sunrise, empire where 
Chrysanthemums and quinces are. 

The things we do you would call queer; 
Our clothes are not like any here. 
Our ladies stifHy do their hair, 
And stick long pins in here and there. 

We wear no shoes within the house; 
We walk as quiet as a mouse. 
Screens that unfold our rooms divide — 
They're large or small — as we decide. 

Ojir stoves, a box of sand; a pot 
Hangs o'er its coals of charcoal hot; 
And there our rice and fish cook we, 
And boil the kettle for our tea. 

We sit on mats upon the floor, 
At tables two feet high — no more. 
I^an terns, but never gas, have we, 
We don't like electricity. 

We always reverence the old, 
And give them honor's place. We're told 
That blessings to the house are sent 
Wherein the aged are content. 

We keep all little children glad. 
And never talk of being "mad; " 
But always are good little friends. 
And so their good time never ends. 

With us each one protects the rest; 
Is not our way by far the best ? 
I think it is, and wish that you 
Would try that way, — you'd like it, too. 
(Extract from "Japanese," by I^ydia Avery Coonley, in 
" Christmas and Other lyands.") 



An ai^t^rnoon in japan. 91 

JAPAN. 

Cradled and rocked in Eastern seas, 

The islands of the Japanese 

Beneath me lie; o'er lake and plain 

The stork, the heron, and the crane 

Through the clear realms of azure drift, 

And on the hillside I can see 

The villages of Imari, 

Whose thronged and flaming workshops lift 

Their twisted volumes of smoke on high; 

Cloud cloisters that in ruins lie 

With sunshine streaming through each rift 

And broken arches of blue sky; 

All the bright flowers that fill the land, 

Ripple of waves on rock or sand; 

The snow on Fujiyama's cone; 

The midnight heaven so thickly sown 

With constellations of bright stars; 

The leaves that rustle, the reeds that make 

A whisper by each stream and lake; 

The saffron dawn, the sunset red. 

Are pictured on these lovely jars. 

Again, the sky lark sings; again. 

The stork, the heron, and the crane 

Float through the azure overhead. 

The counterfeit and counterpart 

Of Nature reproduced in Art. 

— H, W. Longfellow. 

JAPAN. 

These shores forsake, to future ages due; 
A world of islands bears thy happier view, 
Where lavish nature all thy bounty pours, 
And flowers and fruits of every fragrance showers; 
Japan behold; beneath the globe's broad face, 
Northward she sinks, the nether seas embrace 
Her eastern bounds; what glorious fruitage there. 
Illustrious Gama, shall thy labors bear! 

— Selected. 



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g6 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

THE TRAVEL CLASS. 

Nothing in the study of geography is more interesting or 
helpful to pupils than the taking of imaginary journeys. It 
makes geography a /zve subject. 

Suggest that your pupils organize a Travel Club, and that 
some of the trips be personally conducted. 

Maps and a globe should be in constant use. The home 
should be the starting point. Railroad circulars, maps, and time 
cards for free distribution will be found valuable. Pupils should 
be taught how to tise these maps and time cards. 

Give pupils a choice as to routes or roads over which they arc 
to travel. Each pupil, however, should be able to give a reason 
for his preference for any particular road, and must know the 
number of miles and the time required for the journey. The 
road or route voted upon by the majority may then be decided 
upon, and preparations made for the trip. 

Find out the best time to go to each particular country, and 
the reason. What clothes it will be best to wear and to take 
with one. About how much money it will be necessary to spend 
on such a trip, and when and where this money should be 
changed into the coin or currency used in the country we expect 
to visit. 

A Guide may be appointed to obtain time-tables, maps, rail- 
road guides, the little books of travel, or other descriptions of 
routes and of the parts of the country that are to be visited. 
(Further suggestions in regard to these " helps" will be found 
elsewhere in this book.) 

The principal features of the country passed through may be 
described, if time permits; also the more important cities. Note 
the population, occupations, productions, together with anything 
of special interest or historical importance associated with the 
city or locality. 

The Guide takes charge of the class in the same way that a 
tourist guide would do. He escorts us from the home depot to 
the city, state, or country, pointing out the route on a map sus- 
pended before the class. 



THE TRAVEL CEASS. . 97 

Arriving at the city or country, the guide takes us to the 
various points of interest, telling as much about each as he is 
able, and answering questions pupils may wish to ask. If the 
guide can not answer all questions, the teacher or some other 
member of the party may. 

When the guide has finished with a topic or section, other 
members of the party may give items of interest concerning it. 

A different pupil may act as guide to each city or part of the 
country visited, and each pupil should come to the class with a 
list of questions about the places. 

Every pupil in the class may take some part, either as guide, 
or as the class artist, musician, librarian, historian, geographer, 
geologist, botanist, zoologist, or man of letters. 

A Historian may tell us of the history of the country, and 
answer all questions of historical interest. 

A Geographer may tell of the location on the globe, of the 
natural land formations of mountains, canons, prairies, rivers, 
etc., and of the climate' resulting from these. He should illus- 
trate his remarks. 

A Geologist may assist, and show specimens of minerals and 
fossils, or pictures of these, 

A Botanist may tell us of native plants, useful or ornamental, 
and show pictures of these if possible. A Zoologist tells of the 
native animals, their habits and uses. 

The geographer, geologist, botanist, and zoologist direct the 
work at the sand table, and assist in reproducing the country in 
miniature. 

The Merchants and Tradesmen tell us of the products for 
which their country is noted, and show samples of as many as 
it is possible to secure. They also tell what they import, and 
why. 

A Librarian or Correspondent may visit the library for infor- 
mation sought by the club. He must be able to give a list of 
books of travel, and be ready to read or quote extracts referring 
to the places visited on the tour. 

He or his assistant may also clip all articles of interest from 
papers, magazines, and other sources, and arrange these, as well 



98 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO JAPAN. 

as tne articles secured by other pupils, in a scrapbook, devoted 
to each country. 

The Artist and his assistant may tell us about the famous 
artists and their works, if any. He may illustrate his remarks 
with pictures, if he can obtain or make them. 

The Club Artist may also place upon the board in colored 
crayons the flag, the coat of arms, and the national flower of the 
country. 

A Photographer may be appointed to provide or care for the 
photographs and pictures used in the class talks. The photo- 
graphs may often be borrowed from tourists or others. Pictures 
may be obtained from magazines, railroad pampl lets, the illus- 
trated papers, or from the Perry Pictures, and mounted on card- 
board or arranged by the artist in a scrapbook with the name of 
the country on the cover. 

Another pupil may collect curiosities. Many families in each 
neighborhood will be able to contribute some curio. Pupils in 
other rooms in the building will be interested in collecting and 
loaning material for this little museum and picture gallery. 

Coins and stamps may be placed with this collection. Begin 
a stamp album, and collect the stamps of all the countries studied. 
The stamps of many countries show the heads of the rulers. 

The album should be kept on the reading table with the scrap- 
books, in order that pupils may have access to it during their 
periods of leisure. 

Dolls may be dressed in the national costume or to represent 
historical personages. 

This form of construction work may be done outside of school 
hours by pupils under the direction of the historian and artist. 
The dolls, when dressed, may be made the centers of court, home, 
field or forest scenes arranged on the sand table. 

A Musician or musicians may tell us of the characteristic 
music of the country, and of famous singers or composers. She 
may also sing or play the national song or air of the country, if 
there be one. 



LIST OF GOOD BOOKS ON JAPAN. 



" Japonica," Sir Edwin Arnold $3.oo 

" Wee Ones of Japan," M. StJ. Bramhall i.oo 

"Japanese Girls and Women," A. M. Bacon. .75 

" A Japanese Interior," A. M. Bacon .75 

" Unbeaten Tracks in Japan," I. L,. Bishop 2.50 

" Ivotos Time in Japan," H. T. Fink, Scr 1.75 

"Folklore and Art of Japan," W. B. Griffiths 75 

" Exotics and Retrospectives," L<afcadio Hearn 2.00 

" Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan, 2 v., I^afcadio Hearn- . . 4.00 

" Out of the East," lyafcadio Hearn 1.25 

" Gleanings in Buddha Fields," I^afcadio Hearn 1,25 

" Boy Travellers in Japan," T. W. Knox 2.00 

"The Real Japan," H. Norman, Scr 1,50 

"Japan and her People," A. Steinmetz i.oo 

"Story of Japan," Vanbergen 1.50 

' ' Noto : An Unexplored Corner of Japan, ' ' Percival 

lyowell 1 .25 

"The Soul of the Far East," Percival lyowell 1.25 

" Occult Japan," Percival I^owell 1.25 



MAR 28 190! 



^Xatxagatx ^^ujcatx0ixaX Mzxizs 



United States History 



By John W. Gibson, author of Gibson's Chart History, 
etc. Cloth. 513 pages. Fully illustrated by maps, 
charts and diagrams. Introduction price, 80 cents. 
List price, $1.00. Revised to date. 

Prominent features of this popular text- book are: 

1. The Topical Arrangement of the Matter, 

2. A Large Use of Maps and Diagrams, many of them new and 
found only in this work. 

3. Historical Parallel Readings, so placed as to be immediately 
useful to pupil and teacher. 

4. A Combination with the Principles of Elementary Civics. 

5. Summaries, Queries and References Correlating History, 
Literature and Geography. 

§@"Very favorable terms for introduction and exchange. 



Civil Government 



and Local History 



The attention of Superintendents, Teachers and Boards 
is invited to the following successful volumes: 

ILLINOIS AND THE NATION. By O. R. Trowbridge. Cloth. 
267 pages. Price, 60 cents. 50,000 copies sold. 

THE MAKING OF ILLINOIS. Bv Irwtn W. Mather, A. M. 
Cloth. 292 pages. Retail price, $1.00. Pupil edition, 50 cents. 
Handsomely illustrated. Fine paper and clear type. 

IOWA AND THE NATION. By Geo. Chandler, Supt. Schools, 
Osage, Iowa. Cloth. 354 pages. Price, 90 cents. A popular text 

THE MAKING OF IOWA. By Henry Sabin, Ex-State Supt. 
Iowa Schools. Cloth. Illuminated covers. Half-tone illus- 
trations. An attractive reading book. Retail price, $1.00. 

Many other valuable books, outlines, etc. , are deac^ ibed 
in our catalogue. 



A, FLANAGAN COMPANY, Publishers 

266-268 Wabash Avenue, Chicago 






:t 113;' 



Volume IV FEBRUARY. 1901 No. 6 

V v» V Subscription $1.50 per Year v* v *»• 





PI^AN BOOK 




Tc.G.ib^rf. 



A I/ITTI/I> JOURNEY 

TO 

JAPAN 



MARIAN M. GEORGE:. Editor. >< ^ 
^< Mr A. FLANAGAN CO.. Publishers. 



Issvied MpriLthly, except July ivnd A\ig\ist 

V V CntMTfilJn Clilo«t.go Post Office Sl* Seoond-CUs* Nkil V >> 



i/--i^>^«'^^^J:i=^'^^.J?^1>'i^'^j&.# 




PJg3S!CT-^ay3^aKSg»g«53EFgqyi ?^^ 




ANNOUNCEMENT. 



"Japan" is the sixth of a serie.« of Plan Book Journeys, 
which will embrace many countries of great and Rowing inter> 
est to teachers and pupils. All countries may ultimately be in- 
cluded. 

The first numbers in the series are devoted to our 
new possessions, and to those countries which the late wars 
have brought to the attention of the public, and made centers 
of interest. 

The work is planned and prepared for both teachers and 
pupils. The LiTiXE Journeys for the pupils are to be used as 
reference books in connection with the study of a country, or 
as supplementary readers for the Intermediate and Gram- 
mar grades. 

The Teachers' Edition contains the same reading matter, 
with additional pages of suggestions to teachers for conducting 
these journeys abroad ; Programs for Afternoons and Evenings 
Abroad ; Music ; Recitations, and other material for these enter- 
tainments. 

These books are intended for teachers who find it difficult 
to obtain information in regard to the countries visited. 

It is hoped that each volume will be specially helpful to 
those teachers whose books of travel are few, and opportunities 
for travel limited. 

To those teachers who wish to interest their pupils in geog- 
raphy and reading. 

To those teachers and pupils who have grown weary of the 
usual Friday Afternoon Exercises. :. 

To those teachers who wish to arouse the interest and enlist 
the aid of parents in the work of the school. 

To mose teachers who wish to equip their schools with 
libraries, pictures, stereopticon views, etc. 

To those teachers who wish to obtain funds for this purpose 
by giving school entertainments which will not require much 
extra work on the part of the teachers. 

To those teachers who wish to give entertainments which 
will be the outcome of the regular school work. 

To those teachers who believe that pupils enjoy, appreciate, 
and make the best use of material which they themselves have 
helped to secure or earn. 



The following numbers are published: September, Cuba; Octo- 
ber, Puerto Rico; November, Hawaii; December, The Ptallippines; 
January, China; February, Japan. 
I The following numbers are under way: March, Mexico; 

April, Alaslca; May, Australia; June, Canada. 




Little People 



of tKe Snow^ 



V V V By MAR.V MVX.LBR. V V V 

Boards and Cloth, f wenty-nine illustrations, maay full page. 
I,arge, clear t)rpe. Price, boards, 35 cents; clotta, 35 cents. 

•T^HIS is a charming story of the life of an Eskimo boy. Woven in 
* with the text are the customs, surroundings, mode of life, and 
many other interesting details of the little people of the far north. 
The illustrations are numerous and true to life. Combined with the 
lively style of the author, these make a volume that will delight 
children of the primary and intermediate grades. 

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